Hi there! I have to apologize for my absence. You see, Hans, Cody, Lollie, and I have all been out of town. We took a nice trip to Minnesota to visit family, and that got me thinking. How many people really know how to travel with their dogs? Traveling with dogs is a lot like traveling with kids...it's not always easy. It requires a lot of planning, a lot of preparation, and a lot of attention. So, here I'm going to give you some simple steps to follow when it comes to traveling with your dog.
Part 1: Preparation
Step 1: Exercise. Exercise is probably the number one most important thing you can give your dog before you travel, particularly if you have a long car ride. Your dog is going to be cooped up for quite some time, and expecting a hyper / energetic dog to this peacefully just isn't fair. So, take your dog to take care, go for long walks / runs, or go to the dog park. Just make sure your dog is truly tired.
Step 2: Check the vet. Make sure your dog is completely up to date on vaccinations. Also, check out the area you're headed. If you live in colder temperatures, your vet may not often recommend vaccines for tick-born illnesses, but if you're traveling farther south, you may want to consider those vaccines. Take a moment to talk with your vet over what may be best.
Part 2: Packing
For a longer trip, you should bring along the following items:
-Enough food for the entire trip
-Food bowls
-A bed or blanket
-One good chew toy
-One good play toy
-Shot records
-Poop bags
-At least one bottle of water
-Medications
-First Aid Kit (optional)
-Collars (with tags)
-Leashes
-Crate (optional depending on your dog and your destination)
Never assume that you'll be able to buy extra anything on your trip. You might not be able to find your EXACT type of food or toys. On one trip, I was quite surprised at the difficult I had in finding a quality leash. I ended up buying a horse lead!
Also, keep in mind that you want to be a good steward wherever you go, so be prepared for the worst while hoping for the best.
Oh, and that water bottle? That's so you can easily water them in the car. You can always refill it at rest stops, but I found it was helpful to have for in between rest stops.
Part 3: The Trip
First, be prepared to stop more. If you can usually drive 4+ hours without a stop, please don't ask your dog to do that. I recommend stopping every 2-3 hours at least (Note: This is also recommended for people). At each stop, make sure your dog has a chance to stretch his legs, use the bathroom, and drink a little water.
Next, make sure your dog has plenty of space in your car to stretch out. Your dog should have enough room to sit, lie down, and stand up comfortable. It's the same rules that apply when purchasing a crate.
Remember what I said earlier about being a good steward? That really applies here. Pick up poop! That was one of my biggest peeves on this last trip. So often, I'd take my dogs to the designated pet area only to be met with a land mine of dog piles. You can bet I didn't want my dogs in that area either! Also make sure your dogs are polite towards other dogs and people. If other dogs and people stress your dog out, take him to quieter areas.
Part 4: The Destination
The biggest thing here is to actually make your dog a part of your trip. Don't expect your dog to sit in a crate all day while you go off on adventures. Find things your dog can do with you. Go on a hike in a new locale, find a restaurant where you can eat with your pet, or simply go out to new parks and play with a toy. Remember this is a vacation for your dog too, not just for you.
Lastly, I'm going to reiterate the whole good-steward thing. If you're in a hotel, don't allow your dog to bark ad nauseum. If you're staying with friends, clean up after your dog (vacuum up hair, respect rules regarding furniture, etc). You're in charge of your dog, and it's your responsibility to take care of him/her. Don't expect others to clean up your mess.
Traveling with your pet can be a truly rewarding experience. You have a companion and a bit of protection in unfamiliar territory. How much you get out of it, though, will really depend on how much you put into it. Have fun with your best friend on your trip!
*One last note: I did not mention seat belting or crating your dog. Seat belts for dogs have become extremely popular, but recent studies have started questioning their effectiveness. The safest way to travel with your pet is to put your pet in a crate and secure the crate in the car. Some states have laws regarding the safety of traveling with your pet, but if you're not traveling to one of those states, how you secure your dog is up to you.
Wednesday, October 30, 2013
Tuesday, October 8, 2013
Terror Terrier Tallly
I have a question about my Terror Terrier Tally.
Tally loves to go everywhere with me, but she gets terribly annoying. On walks she barks at other dogs, but I just make her sit calmly next to me till the dog passes and then she's all good so that's not a issue, but at the park if she sees another dog having off-leash fun she goes berserk, she wants to go join them in their game of fetch or whatever they're doing. I try distracting her with training and hikes in the trees but she always tries to escape and chase that dog just cause she isn't allowed to join their play. Whenever she plays with a dog they have fun and stuff unless the dog is better than her at something. How can I get her too play nicely and not be such a sore loser? I hate her being on leash while everyone's dogs are playing and chasing each other.
So, here's my first question: Does she ever become aggressive during these barking episodes? Has she ever tried to bite you or another dog over a toy? If the answer is no, then take a deep breath. She just needs a little guidance.
It sounds like Tally is a typical Terrier. She has tons of energy, lots of mental stamina, and she has no idea what to do with herself. So, let's first look at training.
She may know the meaning of the word heel (or whatever command you use), or sit, or down, but just because she understands what you're saying doesn't mean she understands she's supposed to listen all the time. That means it's time to up her training. Start to SLOWLY desensitize her to distractions. If she can be around a calm dog, reward her for being good, then go a baby step up. Work with her with a slightly less calm dog. Note that I did not say a hyper dog. I just meant one who wags its tail a little more. From there, try to work with an even less calm dog (and so forth and so forth) until you work your way up to a dog who's actually hyper. Then, start to change the scenery.
When you change the scenery, you may need to go back a step with your distraction. That's OK. It's perfectly normal. Just take your time and keep working.
In addition to all that, you can also look at some options for corrections. Corrections vary from dog to dog. For some, it may just be a firm, "Ah ah!" while for others you may need something a little stronger (look for a post on corrections coming soon).
Lastly, as always, exercise, exercise, exercise. Walks, runs, bike rides, hikes, games of fetch, swims. Tally will need all that and more to unwind a little. If you think she's getting enough exercise, up it anyway. I can almost guarantee you she still has plenty of energy left.
If you really take the time to work on all that, you'll find that Tally will no longer be a Terror. She'll just be a simple Terrier.
Oh, and one last note. A lot of people stress out over their dog barking in the dog park. I wouldn't. Sometimes dogs just need that opportunity to be a dog. The real problem with dog parks is that they're generally full of a bunch of overly-wound-up dogs, and that can cause some problems. If you're worried about her barking within the dog park, you may not want to take her until you can easily redirect her.
Tally loves to go everywhere with me, but she gets terribly annoying. On walks she barks at other dogs, but I just make her sit calmly next to me till the dog passes and then she's all good so that's not a issue, but at the park if she sees another dog having off-leash fun she goes berserk, she wants to go join them in their game of fetch or whatever they're doing. I try distracting her with training and hikes in the trees but she always tries to escape and chase that dog just cause she isn't allowed to join their play. Whenever she plays with a dog they have fun and stuff unless the dog is better than her at something. How can I get her too play nicely and not be such a sore loser? I hate her being on leash while everyone's dogs are playing and chasing each other.
So, here's my first question: Does she ever become aggressive during these barking episodes? Has she ever tried to bite you or another dog over a toy? If the answer is no, then take a deep breath. She just needs a little guidance.
It sounds like Tally is a typical Terrier. She has tons of energy, lots of mental stamina, and she has no idea what to do with herself. So, let's first look at training.
She may know the meaning of the word heel (or whatever command you use), or sit, or down, but just because she understands what you're saying doesn't mean she understands she's supposed to listen all the time. That means it's time to up her training. Start to SLOWLY desensitize her to distractions. If she can be around a calm dog, reward her for being good, then go a baby step up. Work with her with a slightly less calm dog. Note that I did not say a hyper dog. I just meant one who wags its tail a little more. From there, try to work with an even less calm dog (and so forth and so forth) until you work your way up to a dog who's actually hyper. Then, start to change the scenery.
When you change the scenery, you may need to go back a step with your distraction. That's OK. It's perfectly normal. Just take your time and keep working.
In addition to all that, you can also look at some options for corrections. Corrections vary from dog to dog. For some, it may just be a firm, "Ah ah!" while for others you may need something a little stronger (look for a post on corrections coming soon).
Lastly, as always, exercise, exercise, exercise. Walks, runs, bike rides, hikes, games of fetch, swims. Tally will need all that and more to unwind a little. If you think she's getting enough exercise, up it anyway. I can almost guarantee you she still has plenty of energy left.
If you really take the time to work on all that, you'll find that Tally will no longer be a Terror. She'll just be a simple Terrier.
Oh, and one last note. A lot of people stress out over their dog barking in the dog park. I wouldn't. Sometimes dogs just need that opportunity to be a dog. The real problem with dog parks is that they're generally full of a bunch of overly-wound-up dogs, and that can cause some problems. If you're worried about her barking within the dog park, you may not want to take her until you can easily redirect her.
Tuesday, October 1, 2013
The Midnight Eliminator
Oh I have a question! I have a 2 year old cairn terrier, Flapjack.
She's the very best animal in all possible ways, except for one thing -
midnight pees. When I permit her to sleep in bed with me she doesn't
have to go out until morning, but when she sleeps in another part of the
house she never asks to go out and pees on the floor. She knows she's
made a mistake and acts bashful. What to do?
This problem sounds like a two-fold issue.
First, it sounds like Flapjack may not have been fully house trained. What is she lacking? A way to let you know she needs to go out! How does she signal she needs to go out during the day? If your answer is that she circles at the door, walks to you, or you just take her out on a schedule, that's fine, but it's not going to be great a night when you're sleeping. Try teaching her to ring a bell on the door, something you can hear. The hope would then be that it's easier for her to let you know she needs to go out, and you'll be better able to get up and help her.
Second, it sounds like she simply sleeps better when she's with you. This may be because she feels safer with you or she's warmer with you, or just that you have a more comfortable bed, but whatever the reason, she sleeps better when she's with you. Have you ever had a slightly fitful night's rest? Have you noticed that generally on those nights you need to use the bathroom at some point? The same is probably happening for Flapjack. So, we need to help her rest better. Try giving her a little more exercise closer to bed time, and make sure she feels safe and secure (and comfortable) in her bed. A crate may be a good option as well, as it tends to help with the security aspect, and it keeps her from wandering off and peeing somewhere.
While working on those two things may solve the issue, I'd like to mention one other thing. Pay attention to how much water she's drinking and limit her water at night. You may want to try pulling water up an hour or so before bed time, or just put ice in a bowl so she can't guzzle the water all at once. Just keep in mind that what goes in must come out, and if she's drinking a lot of water then she's also going to have to pee.
One last, final, important note. When you wake up and find a puddle of pee on your floor, it's important to not punish Flapjack. If you don't catch her in the act of peeing, then you've lost your opportunity. Anything after that is just punishment for punishment's sake, and that's not fair to her.
Good luck with Flapjack, and please keep me posted!
This problem sounds like a two-fold issue.
First, it sounds like Flapjack may not have been fully house trained. What is she lacking? A way to let you know she needs to go out! How does she signal she needs to go out during the day? If your answer is that she circles at the door, walks to you, or you just take her out on a schedule, that's fine, but it's not going to be great a night when you're sleeping. Try teaching her to ring a bell on the door, something you can hear. The hope would then be that it's easier for her to let you know she needs to go out, and you'll be better able to get up and help her.
Second, it sounds like she simply sleeps better when she's with you. This may be because she feels safer with you or she's warmer with you, or just that you have a more comfortable bed, but whatever the reason, she sleeps better when she's with you. Have you ever had a slightly fitful night's rest? Have you noticed that generally on those nights you need to use the bathroom at some point? The same is probably happening for Flapjack. So, we need to help her rest better. Try giving her a little more exercise closer to bed time, and make sure she feels safe and secure (and comfortable) in her bed. A crate may be a good option as well, as it tends to help with the security aspect, and it keeps her from wandering off and peeing somewhere.
While working on those two things may solve the issue, I'd like to mention one other thing. Pay attention to how much water she's drinking and limit her water at night. You may want to try pulling water up an hour or so before bed time, or just put ice in a bowl so she can't guzzle the water all at once. Just keep in mind that what goes in must come out, and if she's drinking a lot of water then she's also going to have to pee.
One last, final, important note. When you wake up and find a puddle of pee on your floor, it's important to not punish Flapjack. If you don't catch her in the act of peeing, then you've lost your opportunity. Anything after that is just punishment for punishment's sake, and that's not fair to her.
Good luck with Flapjack, and please keep me posted!
Tuesday, September 24, 2013
Thursday, September 12, 2013
The Charging Jack-Chi
We have another question to answer! The set up for the question is a bit lengthy, but I'm sharing it all with you so you have all the information I have.
I've been having issues with my dog when we go on walks for a long time now and I'm hoping to get some advice. She's a 7 year old chihuahua/jack?/mystery dog mix. She's spayed, and weighs 11 pounds. At home she's always been sweet, she's good for the vet, does well with familiar dogs, and will eagerly make friends with new dogs as long as they come over to our place first. When she was a puppy she was terrified to go on walks, she'd freeze and I'd have to coax her along. She'd always shake and want me to carry her when we'd go to the dog park. Right around when she hit a year she started going berserk whenever she'd see a strange dog during our walks. When my husband takes her, or she's with one of my friends when we're out of town she does better...but with me she goes crazy.
Unfortunately we live in a busy part of a city that has a high population of dog owners, which has turned into her getting pad trained and not walked as often as she should. Recently one of my friends that lives in the same building has been taking her out. For awhile it sounded like she was doing OK, but it turns out she was flipping out on other dogs with her too, and getting picked up. Now she tries to get my friend to pick her up about half of the time when she sees another dog, and if I'm there...she'll stay in full on attack mode until the other dog is out of sight. The last three times my friend took her out, from what I was told, she's started jumping up at strangers and play nipping at their clothes. She's really bouncy, and when we play she'll jump and play nip. But, I'm worried that something might happen so shes no longer going with the friend. I suspect that the issue is her being protective of me (and now my friend), and not getting enough exercise because of the aggressive behavior. What should I do?
This is a great question, and it's a common problem, particularly with small dogs, as they tend to show a bit of a Napoleon complex. In addition, it seems like she may show signs of under-socialization. So, what are some things you can do?
1) Stop picking her up.
It's very common for the owner of a small dog to try to calm their dog by picking her up and soothing her. The problem is, this doesn't actually calm the dog. Rather it teaches her that acting in such a manner will get her hugs and snuggles (praise, if you will). It will actually amp up her behavior as she searches for more ways to get your attention.
2) Teach her a command.
I'd start with teaching her a good heel command. Really, any command could work, but the heel command is probably your best bet.
3) Tell her what you want her to do, NOT what you don't want her to do.
Most people make the mistake of yelling at or trying to shush their dogs when they start barking. The problem with this is that 1) your dog has no idea what you're telling her to do, and 2) even if she does understand "no" she won't understand why. So, it's better to teach your dog a command (like the heel mentioned above) and then use that command when approaching stressful situations. By rewarding your dog when she does the command you've taught her your teaching her that following you will earn her good things.
4) Slowly introduce her to other dogs / distractions.
Don't just throw her into a long walk with huge distractions, and don't expect her to be perfect right off the bat with another wild and crazy dog. Introduce, under control, to a calm, obedient dog. Practice that a few times, then step up to a slightly less-trained dog. Next, have an untrained, calm dog. Keep stepping it up until you reach that crazy, hyper dog test. Through each step, expect her to follow the command(s) you've taught her and reward her for doing so.
5) Consult a Trainer
Whether it seems like it a lot, the steps I just set forth can be quite overwhelming. You may find yourself asking things like, "Am I doing this right?" "Is this command good enough?" "Are we introducing her to the right kinds of dogs?" If in doubt, set up a meeting with a local trainer. Many offer free consultations or at least cheap consultations. A great many also offer walking sessions where you can learn to walk with other dogs (a great source for when you are well into step 4). Don't be afraid to seek the advice of a professional. That's what we're here for!
I hope this helps to answer your question. I do have one last tip, though. Don't concern yourself over what others are thinking. The number one worry I see in people who have barking / aggressive / excited dogs is what others must think of them. The only thing you should be worried about is your dog. By worrying about anything else you are doing your dog and yourself a HUGE disservice. Good luck!
I've been having issues with my dog when we go on walks for a long time now and I'm hoping to get some advice. She's a 7 year old chihuahua/jack?/mystery dog mix. She's spayed, and weighs 11 pounds. At home she's always been sweet, she's good for the vet, does well with familiar dogs, and will eagerly make friends with new dogs as long as they come over to our place first. When she was a puppy she was terrified to go on walks, she'd freeze and I'd have to coax her along. She'd always shake and want me to carry her when we'd go to the dog park. Right around when she hit a year she started going berserk whenever she'd see a strange dog during our walks. When my husband takes her, or she's with one of my friends when we're out of town she does better...but with me she goes crazy.
Unfortunately we live in a busy part of a city that has a high population of dog owners, which has turned into her getting pad trained and not walked as often as she should. Recently one of my friends that lives in the same building has been taking her out. For awhile it sounded like she was doing OK, but it turns out she was flipping out on other dogs with her too, and getting picked up. Now she tries to get my friend to pick her up about half of the time when she sees another dog, and if I'm there...she'll stay in full on attack mode until the other dog is out of sight. The last three times my friend took her out, from what I was told, she's started jumping up at strangers and play nipping at their clothes. She's really bouncy, and when we play she'll jump and play nip. But, I'm worried that something might happen so shes no longer going with the friend. I suspect that the issue is her being protective of me (and now my friend), and not getting enough exercise because of the aggressive behavior. What should I do?
This is a great question, and it's a common problem, particularly with small dogs, as they tend to show a bit of a Napoleon complex. In addition, it seems like she may show signs of under-socialization. So, what are some things you can do?
1) Stop picking her up.
It's very common for the owner of a small dog to try to calm their dog by picking her up and soothing her. The problem is, this doesn't actually calm the dog. Rather it teaches her that acting in such a manner will get her hugs and snuggles (praise, if you will). It will actually amp up her behavior as she searches for more ways to get your attention.
2) Teach her a command.
I'd start with teaching her a good heel command. Really, any command could work, but the heel command is probably your best bet.
3) Tell her what you want her to do, NOT what you don't want her to do.
Most people make the mistake of yelling at or trying to shush their dogs when they start barking. The problem with this is that 1) your dog has no idea what you're telling her to do, and 2) even if she does understand "no" she won't understand why. So, it's better to teach your dog a command (like the heel mentioned above) and then use that command when approaching stressful situations. By rewarding your dog when she does the command you've taught her your teaching her that following you will earn her good things.
4) Slowly introduce her to other dogs / distractions.
Don't just throw her into a long walk with huge distractions, and don't expect her to be perfect right off the bat with another wild and crazy dog. Introduce, under control, to a calm, obedient dog. Practice that a few times, then step up to a slightly less-trained dog. Next, have an untrained, calm dog. Keep stepping it up until you reach that crazy, hyper dog test. Through each step, expect her to follow the command(s) you've taught her and reward her for doing so.
5) Consult a Trainer
Whether it seems like it a lot, the steps I just set forth can be quite overwhelming. You may find yourself asking things like, "Am I doing this right?" "Is this command good enough?" "Are we introducing her to the right kinds of dogs?" If in doubt, set up a meeting with a local trainer. Many offer free consultations or at least cheap consultations. A great many also offer walking sessions where you can learn to walk with other dogs (a great source for when you are well into step 4). Don't be afraid to seek the advice of a professional. That's what we're here for!
I hope this helps to answer your question. I do have one last tip, though. Don't concern yourself over what others are thinking. The number one worry I see in people who have barking / aggressive / excited dogs is what others must think of them. The only thing you should be worried about is your dog. By worrying about anything else you are doing your dog and yourself a HUGE disservice. Good luck!
Friday, September 6, 2013
Dogs In Need
For those of you who don't know, I do a lot of work with area rescue groups. Mainly, I often offer my kennel as a halfway house for dogs who don't yet have a foster or a forever home. Occasionally this also involves training them or grooming them. In addition to that, I serve as an adoption screener, meaning I screen applicants who are interested in a dog to see if that dog is a good fit for them. This means I have a lot of interaction with people involved with a rescue. Some of them are looking for a new dog, some of them are surrendering their current dog. Some of them are tearful because they want to be able to keep the dog but just can't, some of them are matter of fact that the dog isn't a good fit, and some are finding a home for a dog because the dog's owner is too sick to care for the dog himself/herself. Today was the first time, though, that I became physically ill when I saw the state of the dog.
An owner came in today to surrender her dog. She said it was a poodle mix, and that her employment situation just didn't allow her to care for her dog the way she'd like (something I'd heard many times before). She said he hadn't been groomed for a while, and he had a few bad matts (again nothing new). This is what she brought in:
The matt on his back alone weighed about a half pound. His legs were so matted that he couldn't walk. He had a matt that connected from the bottom of his neck to the back of his front leg, so even standing was painful. During the grooming process, there were a few times he yelped in pain because simply trying to stretch out his leg hurt him. Even through all that, though, he was friendly. He didn't try to bite.
An owner came in today to surrender her dog. She said it was a poodle mix, and that her employment situation just didn't allow her to care for her dog the way she'd like (something I'd heard many times before). She said he hadn't been groomed for a while, and he had a few bad matts (again nothing new). This is what she brought in:
When we were done with the shave down were were left with what you see above. Each black speck is a tick. His paws were worse, and he had many ticks between each toe. As we were shaving, at one point we shaved a huge matt of his ear. It wasn't just a matt, though. It was, in fact, a tick nest. Hundreds of baby ticks had hatched on him and were making their home.
This sweet boy has been living outside for at least a year (probably more). This sweet boy did nothing to deserve this treatment. He was friendly and sweet. He was a little nervous, but he was patient with us. At this point, we're only partially done with his intake care. The next step is to let the tick medicine do its trick and to finish grooming him. We also need to administer vaccines to him since the only one he's had in the past 5 years is Rabies. Chances are he has a tick-born illness which will require some fairly costly meds, and I can only hope that he doesn't have heart worms.
In the few years I've worked with rescues, I've seen some pretty desperate situations. This week alone I saw two dogs, emaciated, whose owner had run out of dog food and had essentially quit feeding them; I saw a dog who had heartworms, lyme disease, and ehrlichia all because the owner hadn't given it preventative meds; and I saw a dog, terrified of everything, either because it had been beaten or because the owner just hadn't taken the time to socialize it. Still, none of that compares to this. This is more than just neglect. This is more than just an oversight. This is flat-out abuse. This dog was in so much pain he could not walk...all because someone had refused to take a brush or a pair of scissors to him.
The problem is, there are so many dogs like him. There are so many in shelters and in bad homes. They need help. They need someone to care for them, to love them, to play with them. Rescues need fosters and donations. If you're looking for a way to help, contact your local rescue, or contact me. There's no reason for dogs like this little guy to stay in this situation. We can help them. You can help them.
Tuesday, September 3, 2013
Aggressive Dog
Apparently I had missed this question that a reader had posted on the blog, but I'm going to try to answer it now.
I am new at your blog, but I have questions regarding my just adopted dog. He was very sweet when we first got him, but now he seems to be aggressive. He is nice when I am at home with him (I work at home), but once my husband comes home from work, he is very aggressive towards me, growling and bearing teeth. He is not neutered yet as he was found to be heartworm positive when we got him and undergoing treatment for that. Why do you think he is aggressive towards me when my husband is home and not when my husband is gone?
This is actually a very interesting situation, and it may be somewhat difficult to answer. First, I have a few questions of my own:
1) How old is your dog?
2) What breed is your dog?
3) What do you and your husband do for a living?
Without having met you or your dog, if I had to guess, I'd probably say your dog is exhibiting some guarding behavior. Namely, your dog is guarding your husband. Generally, when I see this, it's when a dog has bonded more with one person over another. The dog essentially "claims" this person as his and feels it's his job to protect this person and his property. You'll often see other behaviors, generally mistaken for affection, as well. These may include climbing into the person's lap, sleeping next to the person, or insistence on being petted. In most cases, you'll see this type of behavior displayed towards a woman, while the man in the house is shown aggression. Of course, though, there are no rules.
So, what do we do about it?
Well, we first need to teach your dog some manners. I generally say it's not about what you DON'T want him to do, but rather about what you WANT him to do. In other words, it's easier to tell him to sit than it is to tell him to stop. So, try to teach him some basic obedience. All he really needs to know is one really great command (down/stay or something similar). If he can do this through any situation, you're ready to move on to the next stage.
Next, create some distance between your husband and your dog. Instead of allowing your dog to climb up in your husbands lap or climb between you and your husband when you're relaxing, tell your dog to down/stay on the other side of the room. Your husband could also be the one to tell him this. Teach him that his biggest rewards will come when he's calm and away from either you or your husband. Remember, it's not about teaching him to leave your husband alone. Rather, it's about teaching him that good things will happen when he's not trying to guard your husband.
After that, we need to teach him that all good things come from you and he has to work for them. I call this plan The No Free Lunch Program. Essentially, have him do a command for everything. Make him sit before you pet him. Make him sit before you play with him. Make him walk in a heel when you take him out. Make him sit/stay before you take him outside. Make him sit/stay before you feed him. Have him down/stay while you're eating. Of course, you don't have to use the commands I just stated, but you do have to have him work.
Lastly, you can amplify the No Free Lunch Program a bit. Feed him out of your hand rather than out of a bowl and have him do a command for each new handful. Don't allow him on furniture unless specifically invited or don't allow him at all.
By teaching him to follow you more and that you're the provider of all things good you'll create a much stronger bond with your dog, and you'll encounter fewer incidents.
One last word of caution: Take note of whether the aggression is worse at certain times of day. If you're dealing with some sort of neurological disorder or physical ailment, things may be worse in the evening when your dog is tired and less tolerant of outside stimuli.
I hope that you and your dog can find a peaceful cohabitation.
I am new at your blog, but I have questions regarding my just adopted dog. He was very sweet when we first got him, but now he seems to be aggressive. He is nice when I am at home with him (I work at home), but once my husband comes home from work, he is very aggressive towards me, growling and bearing teeth. He is not neutered yet as he was found to be heartworm positive when we got him and undergoing treatment for that. Why do you think he is aggressive towards me when my husband is home and not when my husband is gone?
This is actually a very interesting situation, and it may be somewhat difficult to answer. First, I have a few questions of my own:
1) How old is your dog?
2) What breed is your dog?
3) What do you and your husband do for a living?
Without having met you or your dog, if I had to guess, I'd probably say your dog is exhibiting some guarding behavior. Namely, your dog is guarding your husband. Generally, when I see this, it's when a dog has bonded more with one person over another. The dog essentially "claims" this person as his and feels it's his job to protect this person and his property. You'll often see other behaviors, generally mistaken for affection, as well. These may include climbing into the person's lap, sleeping next to the person, or insistence on being petted. In most cases, you'll see this type of behavior displayed towards a woman, while the man in the house is shown aggression. Of course, though, there are no rules.
So, what do we do about it?
Well, we first need to teach your dog some manners. I generally say it's not about what you DON'T want him to do, but rather about what you WANT him to do. In other words, it's easier to tell him to sit than it is to tell him to stop. So, try to teach him some basic obedience. All he really needs to know is one really great command (down/stay or something similar). If he can do this through any situation, you're ready to move on to the next stage.
Next, create some distance between your husband and your dog. Instead of allowing your dog to climb up in your husbands lap or climb between you and your husband when you're relaxing, tell your dog to down/stay on the other side of the room. Your husband could also be the one to tell him this. Teach him that his biggest rewards will come when he's calm and away from either you or your husband. Remember, it's not about teaching him to leave your husband alone. Rather, it's about teaching him that good things will happen when he's not trying to guard your husband.
After that, we need to teach him that all good things come from you and he has to work for them. I call this plan The No Free Lunch Program. Essentially, have him do a command for everything. Make him sit before you pet him. Make him sit before you play with him. Make him walk in a heel when you take him out. Make him sit/stay before you take him outside. Make him sit/stay before you feed him. Have him down/stay while you're eating. Of course, you don't have to use the commands I just stated, but you do have to have him work.
Lastly, you can amplify the No Free Lunch Program a bit. Feed him out of your hand rather than out of a bowl and have him do a command for each new handful. Don't allow him on furniture unless specifically invited or don't allow him at all.
By teaching him to follow you more and that you're the provider of all things good you'll create a much stronger bond with your dog, and you'll encounter fewer incidents.
One last word of caution: Take note of whether the aggression is worse at certain times of day. If you're dealing with some sort of neurological disorder or physical ailment, things may be worse in the evening when your dog is tired and less tolerant of outside stimuli.
I hope that you and your dog can find a peaceful cohabitation.
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