Thanks for this blog. I have a question, wondering if you could help. I
have an 11-year-old collie, very healthy. We're moving to an area that
has no grass or park to let her lose nearby.
The problem is that
over the years we have always lived near a park and she got used to ONLY
pee or poop over grass, over leaves or snow. She has never peed on
asphalt, sidewalk or the curb.
Do you know how can I teach her to go on the curb at this age? Any help will be appreciated. Thank you much!
Alright, so my first thought here is, "Find some grass." Your dog is 11, and while she's perfectly capable of learning new things, it's not always fair to ask her to change her life that much. Is there even just a small tree with some dirt that you could take her to?
Let's assume, though, that there really is no other option. Well, that's when you kind of have to go back go potty training 101. You do have one advantage, though. Your dog already knows not to go potty inside.
If your dog doesn't know one yet, start off by teaching a potty command. When your dog uses the bathroom, put a command with it. Say something like "Go potty!" or "Hurry up!" Really, the words you use don't matter so much, just so long as your consistent. I've had some people use "Ketchup" to mean go pee, and "mustard" to mean go poop. Then, reward your dog for using the potty by providing a small, tasty treat. It won't take long before you'll be able to use this command and have your dog respond by using the bathroom.
Next, stop allowing your dog to run loose to potty. Keep the leash attached and use that "go potty" command. Reward your dog for using the potty on command. Now you're ready to go to the city.
When it's about time for your dog to potty, take her outside, and use her go potty command. She might not respond at first as she's used to the feel and smell of grass and dirt. If she doesn't potty, don't make a big deal of it. Just take her back inside. Here's the key, though. Don't allow her to simply run around free. Keep her on leash so she can't just run off and hide her potty somewhere in your house.
After 5-10 minutes, try again. Take her outside and tell her, "Go potty." Repeat these two steps until she actually goes. When she does, give her tons of praise and rewards (make sure she's actually done going as you don't want to startle her into stopping). Then, lead her back inside where she can have her usual freedom.
Obviously, this is going to take a little time (a couple weeks to prep at least), and it may take some extra time when you first move, so adjust your schedule accordingly.
A few more tips for when you move: Make sure you keep her potty spot fairly consistent to start off. She'll quickly start to see that as her potty spot. Also, if you can find a spot where other area dogs tend to potty, go there. Their scents may help encourage her to potty as well.
Good luck on your move, and be gentle with your gal. This is a big adjustment for her too!
Tuesday, January 21, 2014
Tuesday, January 14, 2014
The Big Bully
Hello all! I'm so sorry for the delay in posts. Time just got a little away from me. I've received some really great questions recently, though, so I'm hoping to catch up here soon. For this post, I've received a question regarding a large dog and some young kids.
I have a question and would really appreciate any help. My husband and I got a bull mastiff- Rottweiler mix 7 months ago and he started being aggressive with our 3 year old and 1 year old right away. He is fine with me and my husband but growls at the kids. He has growled very viciously since bringing him home. He growls if they pet him on his back or get close to him when he has, food, water, or a bone. Sometimes he growls for no reason. The kids are never mean to him and are never alone with him. We tried getting him trained two weeks straight with no change. He has actually nipped my 3 year old son once that didn't draw blood but did leave a mark and make him cry. My question is ..is there any hope for him or do you think he will always be aggressive? We don't have money to get him trained anymore. He hasn't been fixed yet but people keep saying he will stop being aggressive after he's fixed but he's been doing this all along. Would appreciate your advice on to keep him or not. Thanks so much!
This is actually a really difficult question to answer, but my primary instinct is to say that he's probably not a good fit for you family. Let me explain.
First, kids are not like normal people. I'm sure you see your 3 year old a small person who's just cute and learning. Your dog does not see them this way. To your dog, a 3 year old is an alien creature who talks in a really weird language and doesn't quite walk right. That's pretty scary! Don't even get me started on what a 1 year old is like to your dog!!
Secondly, as much as you work with your dog, you also have to work with your kids. Most kids see dogs as something soft and snuggly that they can play with. Even kids that are cautious with dogs end up interacting with differently with them than an adult would. The way they pet and talk and look at a dog are all different, and the way your dog looks at them is different too. Trying to teach a very young child the exactly perfect way to approach, pet, and handle your dog is, well I don't like to use the word "impossible," but it's extremely difficult.
Third, your dog has already bitten your 3 year old. He's already setting the tone, and chances are things will end up getting worse before they get better. You're putting both the dog and the child at risk by keeping them together.
Fourth, this is not something that developed over time. You did not bring in a dog 7 months ago who was well-socialized to kids but then developed a few issues. Your brought in a dog 7 months ago who didn't like kids from the get-go. Changing that is going to be difficult.
Lastly, simply the time and commitment it would take to make things better. It's certainly not impossible to help your dog, but it will take a lot of work (far longer than 2 weeks) and a lot of time. In my experience, most parents of 2 young kids just don't have the time or the energy to handle that (a big applause to you if you do).
Now then, all that being said, there are a couple of things I'd like to clarify about all I said.
1) Age will make a difference here, and I haven't met your dog. No offense, but I always worry when someone tells me their dog is aggressive. Many times, what they see as aggression is really just overgrown hyper puppy. Having never met your dog or seen how he acts around your kids, I am really just assuming that what you're saying is completely accurate.
2) Notice that at no point did I think your dog should be put down / euthanized. Just because he's not a great fit for your family doesn't mean he wouldn't be a great fit for someone else. It could just be that he's not great with kids, but would do wonderfully in a home free of children.
I really hope this answers your question. I'm sorry I couldn't give you a more positive response, but I really worry when young kids are involved. Good luck!
I have a question and would really appreciate any help. My husband and I got a bull mastiff- Rottweiler mix 7 months ago and he started being aggressive with our 3 year old and 1 year old right away. He is fine with me and my husband but growls at the kids. He has growled very viciously since bringing him home. He growls if they pet him on his back or get close to him when he has, food, water, or a bone. Sometimes he growls for no reason. The kids are never mean to him and are never alone with him. We tried getting him trained two weeks straight with no change. He has actually nipped my 3 year old son once that didn't draw blood but did leave a mark and make him cry. My question is ..is there any hope for him or do you think he will always be aggressive? We don't have money to get him trained anymore. He hasn't been fixed yet but people keep saying he will stop being aggressive after he's fixed but he's been doing this all along. Would appreciate your advice on to keep him or not. Thanks so much!
This is actually a really difficult question to answer, but my primary instinct is to say that he's probably not a good fit for you family. Let me explain.
First, kids are not like normal people. I'm sure you see your 3 year old a small person who's just cute and learning. Your dog does not see them this way. To your dog, a 3 year old is an alien creature who talks in a really weird language and doesn't quite walk right. That's pretty scary! Don't even get me started on what a 1 year old is like to your dog!!
Secondly, as much as you work with your dog, you also have to work with your kids. Most kids see dogs as something soft and snuggly that they can play with. Even kids that are cautious with dogs end up interacting with differently with them than an adult would. The way they pet and talk and look at a dog are all different, and the way your dog looks at them is different too. Trying to teach a very young child the exactly perfect way to approach, pet, and handle your dog is, well I don't like to use the word "impossible," but it's extremely difficult.
Third, your dog has already bitten your 3 year old. He's already setting the tone, and chances are things will end up getting worse before they get better. You're putting both the dog and the child at risk by keeping them together.
Fourth, this is not something that developed over time. You did not bring in a dog 7 months ago who was well-socialized to kids but then developed a few issues. Your brought in a dog 7 months ago who didn't like kids from the get-go. Changing that is going to be difficult.
Lastly, simply the time and commitment it would take to make things better. It's certainly not impossible to help your dog, but it will take a lot of work (far longer than 2 weeks) and a lot of time. In my experience, most parents of 2 young kids just don't have the time or the energy to handle that (a big applause to you if you do).
Now then, all that being said, there are a couple of things I'd like to clarify about all I said.
1) Age will make a difference here, and I haven't met your dog. No offense, but I always worry when someone tells me their dog is aggressive. Many times, what they see as aggression is really just overgrown hyper puppy. Having never met your dog or seen how he acts around your kids, I am really just assuming that what you're saying is completely accurate.
2) Notice that at no point did I think your dog should be put down / euthanized. Just because he's not a great fit for your family doesn't mean he wouldn't be a great fit for someone else. It could just be that he's not great with kids, but would do wonderfully in a home free of children.
I really hope this answers your question. I'm sorry I couldn't give you a more positive response, but I really worry when young kids are involved. Good luck!
Monday, December 16, 2013
Holidays
It is around this time of year that I get a slew of questions regarding the holidays. People ask things like:
Should I take my dog with me on vacation?
What should I do with my dog when the family comes over?
Is it safe for my dog to have turkey / ham / pecan pie / etc?
How can I keep my dog from jumping on the table / people / etc?
Are poinsettias really bad for my dog?
Where should I place my Christmas tree so I know my dog won't damage it?
The thing with most of these questions is that they all depend on your dog and your lifestyle. So, let me first address the more generic questions.
Is it safe for my dog to have turkey / ham / pecan pie / etc?
I'll be honest. I'm fairly lax here and will often give my dogs a small treat or let them lick my plate. However, just like with most things, there is definitely such a thing as too much of a good thing. I would never give my dogs a whole plate of turkey or even their own slice of pie. Chances are it would make them sick, and I'd be left cleaning up the mess. And there are a few things that aren't so great for any dog. Raisins (which are found in many Christmas desserts) can be dangerous and pork is almost guaranteed to make them sick.
How can I keep my dog from jumping on the table / people / etc?
If I've said it once, I've said it a thousand times: obedience, obedience, obedience. A dog who is in a down / stay or place is not going to jump on the table or your grandmother. In addition to that, though, a lot of exercise will help your dog stay a little more relaxed and that should help keep them on all four paws as well. Lastly, if your dog is not trained and you don't think you're going to monitor him / her, consider boarding or day care. I'd rather you drop your dog off somewhere for a night than get horribly frustrated. There are enough frustrations during the holidays. Your dog shouldn't be one of them!
Are poinsettias really bad for my dog?
Surprisingly no. Most people think the white sap and the red leaves in a poinsettia are deadly for both dogs and cats, but that's a myth. While the berries can be somewhat toxic, poinsettias pretty much have a needlessly bad rap. Still, though, you must ask yourself if you're OK with your dog or cat eating your plants. If you're not, you may want to stick with an artificial version (I have one at the kennel that's nice to be able to use year after year).
For all the other questions, it really depends on your dog. Do you have a calm dog? Does your dog enjoy traveling? Is your dog fully house trained? Are you willing to watch your dog a little more than normal while there are new distractions? What about your family? Are they dog people too, or are they having trouble comprehending why you would want anything in your house that has fur on it?
Personally, my dogs are always part of the festivities. They travel with me, and they're there for everything except Christmas Mass. They're well-behaved through Christmas dinner, and I just keep a little extra eye on them as people start coming in (they love being around new people and will sometimes get a little over-excited). Not everyone is like that, though, and not everyone has a family that is as dog-friendly as mine. If you think your dog may cause more trouble than you can handle, it may be best to board your dog, have a friend watch your dog, or even just put your dog in a separate room for a few hours.
I hope the next few weeks find you relaxed and happy. No matter what your plans for your dog over the holidays, spend this next week enjoying your dog. Go for long walks, play games, just have a good time. I promise it will put you in a good mood and in more of the holiday spirit!
HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!
Should I take my dog with me on vacation?
What should I do with my dog when the family comes over?
Is it safe for my dog to have turkey / ham / pecan pie / etc?
How can I keep my dog from jumping on the table / people / etc?
Are poinsettias really bad for my dog?
Where should I place my Christmas tree so I know my dog won't damage it?
The thing with most of these questions is that they all depend on your dog and your lifestyle. So, let me first address the more generic questions.
Is it safe for my dog to have turkey / ham / pecan pie / etc?
I'll be honest. I'm fairly lax here and will often give my dogs a small treat or let them lick my plate. However, just like with most things, there is definitely such a thing as too much of a good thing. I would never give my dogs a whole plate of turkey or even their own slice of pie. Chances are it would make them sick, and I'd be left cleaning up the mess. And there are a few things that aren't so great for any dog. Raisins (which are found in many Christmas desserts) can be dangerous and pork is almost guaranteed to make them sick.
How can I keep my dog from jumping on the table / people / etc?
If I've said it once, I've said it a thousand times: obedience, obedience, obedience. A dog who is in a down / stay or place is not going to jump on the table or your grandmother. In addition to that, though, a lot of exercise will help your dog stay a little more relaxed and that should help keep them on all four paws as well. Lastly, if your dog is not trained and you don't think you're going to monitor him / her, consider boarding or day care. I'd rather you drop your dog off somewhere for a night than get horribly frustrated. There are enough frustrations during the holidays. Your dog shouldn't be one of them!
Are poinsettias really bad for my dog?
Surprisingly no. Most people think the white sap and the red leaves in a poinsettia are deadly for both dogs and cats, but that's a myth. While the berries can be somewhat toxic, poinsettias pretty much have a needlessly bad rap. Still, though, you must ask yourself if you're OK with your dog or cat eating your plants. If you're not, you may want to stick with an artificial version (I have one at the kennel that's nice to be able to use year after year).
For all the other questions, it really depends on your dog. Do you have a calm dog? Does your dog enjoy traveling? Is your dog fully house trained? Are you willing to watch your dog a little more than normal while there are new distractions? What about your family? Are they dog people too, or are they having trouble comprehending why you would want anything in your house that has fur on it?
Personally, my dogs are always part of the festivities. They travel with me, and they're there for everything except Christmas Mass. They're well-behaved through Christmas dinner, and I just keep a little extra eye on them as people start coming in (they love being around new people and will sometimes get a little over-excited). Not everyone is like that, though, and not everyone has a family that is as dog-friendly as mine. If you think your dog may cause more trouble than you can handle, it may be best to board your dog, have a friend watch your dog, or even just put your dog in a separate room for a few hours.
I hope the next few weeks find you relaxed and happy. No matter what your plans for your dog over the holidays, spend this next week enjoying your dog. Go for long walks, play games, just have a good time. I promise it will put you in a good mood and in more of the holiday spirit!
HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!
Tuesday, December 3, 2013
Jack the Jack Russell Is Being a Jack A**
About 5 months ago, my family adopted a 1 ½ year old neutered jack
Russell/poodle mix (we think!) named Jack from the SPCA. He has proven
to be a challenge, but until recently we have not had any issues that
aren’t fixable through simple training. On Thanksgiving day, Jack
somehow got a hold of a cotton swab and took it into his crate with him.
I idiotically reached in to get it from him, and he left some nasty
bite wounds on my hand. Yesterday, my dad had the leftover turkey on the
kitchen counter, and when he left the room for a minute, Jack managed
to grab a turkey leg and bring it into his crate. My dad had to use a
garden rake to retrieve it, which Jack proceeded to bite and attack the
rake throughout the process. Today, my mom had the turkey out on the
counter, and when I stepped in front of Jack in attempt to get him away
from the turkey, he immediately went into attack mode; if I had not been
wearing plush slippers, there’s a good chance I’d be in the emergency
room right now. Other than this newfound aggression over turkey, Jack is
a sweet, affectionate and playful dog. It would be my worst nightmare
to have him put down over this. I understand that there are no quick
fixes to such severe behavioral issues, but my family and I obviously
cannot go on living in fear of Jack attacking every time we eat. PLEASE
HELP!
Let me start by saying that this is a VERY serious issue. Biting of any kind is concerning, but the fact that he's biting to the point of breaking skin and possibly needing stitches is worrisome. So, what should you do?
The first thing I would do would be to take away any possibility of him getting anything he shouldn't have. How do you do this you ask. Well, you have to make sure you can monitor him at all times. The best way to do this is to utilize two different tools: The leash and the crate. When he's with the family have him on leash, attached to someone who can keep a good hold of him. When no one can watch him, put him in a crate.
Next comes training. He needs to learn how to listen to you. Even just one command will go a long way. For this instance, I would teach him a solid recall (come) or a sit. That way, if he does happen to get a hold of something he shouldn't have, you can give him a command to call him away from it. Ideally, though, you would put him through a good, solid training program. I like to make dogs work for all the things they really want in life (to go outside, to eat, to play, etc). Essentially, he'll learn that everything good comes from you and he has to work for it.
After that, we need to work on desensitization. I'd start when he's eating his food. Start by giving him his regular food, and every few seconds drop a high-value treat in his bowl (hot dog, cheese, etc). Don't move around him or pet him. Just drop the treat in his bowl. After a while he'll start to recognize that your approach of his food is a good thing. He may start to wait for you to give him the treat, or he may just start wagging his tail when you approach him. At that point, you can try moving away from him and returning to him before dropping the treat. When you get tail wags for that, try taking things up another notch. Try approaching from different directions, then try touching him, all while giving him treats. This will help him learn that your approach does not necessarily mean he's going to lose something good. Rather, he may gain something better.
Lastly, if he does happen to get something he shouldn't, don't just try to take it away. Try to trade it for something better. Offer him a toy or a better treat. See if there's something special enough for him to give up. That way, it's no longer a fight over who gets the treat, but rather an opportunity for him to have something better (in his eyes anyway).
I will recommend that you consult a professional trainer as well (more than just on this blog). It's hard to diagnose and treat an issue without meeting the dog or knowing the family dynamic, so it's best if someone is able to meet with you.
Good luck with Jack. I know it's a lot of hard work, but having someone who is willing to work with him is extremely important for Jack right now. Many rescues won't spend much time with a dog who shows severe aggression, and even if they do work with him, it becomes difficult to transfer his good behavior into a new home with new rules. I wish you the best!
Let me start by saying that this is a VERY serious issue. Biting of any kind is concerning, but the fact that he's biting to the point of breaking skin and possibly needing stitches is worrisome. So, what should you do?
The first thing I would do would be to take away any possibility of him getting anything he shouldn't have. How do you do this you ask. Well, you have to make sure you can monitor him at all times. The best way to do this is to utilize two different tools: The leash and the crate. When he's with the family have him on leash, attached to someone who can keep a good hold of him. When no one can watch him, put him in a crate.
Next comes training. He needs to learn how to listen to you. Even just one command will go a long way. For this instance, I would teach him a solid recall (come) or a sit. That way, if he does happen to get a hold of something he shouldn't have, you can give him a command to call him away from it. Ideally, though, you would put him through a good, solid training program. I like to make dogs work for all the things they really want in life (to go outside, to eat, to play, etc). Essentially, he'll learn that everything good comes from you and he has to work for it.
After that, we need to work on desensitization. I'd start when he's eating his food. Start by giving him his regular food, and every few seconds drop a high-value treat in his bowl (hot dog, cheese, etc). Don't move around him or pet him. Just drop the treat in his bowl. After a while he'll start to recognize that your approach of his food is a good thing. He may start to wait for you to give him the treat, or he may just start wagging his tail when you approach him. At that point, you can try moving away from him and returning to him before dropping the treat. When you get tail wags for that, try taking things up another notch. Try approaching from different directions, then try touching him, all while giving him treats. This will help him learn that your approach does not necessarily mean he's going to lose something good. Rather, he may gain something better.
Lastly, if he does happen to get something he shouldn't, don't just try to take it away. Try to trade it for something better. Offer him a toy or a better treat. See if there's something special enough for him to give up. That way, it's no longer a fight over who gets the treat, but rather an opportunity for him to have something better (in his eyes anyway).
I will recommend that you consult a professional trainer as well (more than just on this blog). It's hard to diagnose and treat an issue without meeting the dog or knowing the family dynamic, so it's best if someone is able to meet with you.
Good luck with Jack. I know it's a lot of hard work, but having someone who is willing to work with him is extremely important for Jack right now. Many rescues won't spend much time with a dog who shows severe aggression, and even if they do work with him, it becomes difficult to transfer his good behavior into a new home with new rules. I wish you the best!
Thursday, November 28, 2013
Thankful
Usually this blog is a source of information for many. I'll answer questions or post interesting tidbits (well, interesting to me any way). But, today is Thanksgiving, so I'm taking a little break from that. I could post information on how to keep your pet safe today, but the reality is that many of you have heard all the tips before. And, if you have any questions, feel free to ask.
Today, I want to take a moment to express my thanks to everyone for all their support in this growing business. I couldn't be more pleased with all we've accomplished in just under two years, and we would not have been able to do this if it weren't for your help. I know Thanksgiving is just one day out of the year, and I'm thankful every day for you, but today just seems like the perfect day to really let you know how appreciative I am.
That said, I'm also thankful for a few other creatures in my life: Cody, Lollie, Mo, and Stolte. My two dogs and two cats do so much to help keep me sane when life seems to be going crazy. Anyway, I thought I'd tell you a little more about them and why I'm so thankful they're around.
-Mo has been mine since he was 4 hours old (you read that right). He was tossed in a Walmart trash bin along with his 3 brothers and sisters and was rescued by a woman who happened to notice something strange about the bag they were in. I was only 16, but I bottle fed them and took charge of the 3am feedings. He's my needy child, but he's also a constant reminder of what can come when people do a little good. If that woman had decided to just keep walking, or if the rescue she took them to had turned them away, or if my mom had simply said we couldn't take them in, then he might not be here today. It took a lot of people doing a lot of good to make up for that one callous and cruel act, but those people exist. I'm thankful for that.
-Stolte was also bottle fed, although her story isn't quiet dramatic. Her mother was accidentally locked away from her (it's a long story), and by the time we found her and reunited mother and kitten, the mom wouldn't take her back. I happened to already know how to bottle feed a kitten (thanks to Mo), so I said I would take her in. It was my senior year of college, and I was freezing in Minnesota. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little depressed. Stolte made me happy. She made each day a little easier. I made friends with new people simply because they wanted to snuggle with a kitten too. She may be a bit undersocialized and my in-laws may call her demon-kitty, but she loves me and Hans, and she's happy when she's with us. I'm thankful for that.
-Cody I consider my first born. I love my cats, but I am admittedly a dog person through and through, and Cody was the first dog who was wholly and truly mine. He's the reason I went into dog training, and he was my motivation behind opening a kennel. If Cody had not come into my life I honestly don't know where I'd be or what I'd be doing. I could write a whole book on all that Cody has given me, but let's just say that I'm grateful for his mere existence.
-Lollie is my court jester. She came into my life through training, and she makes me laugh on a daily basis. She is by far one of the smartest dogs I've known, but I'd be eternally grateful if she'd learn to use her knowledge for good instead of evil as I tire of finding new ways to hide food from her. Whether she's snoring so loud she sounds like a chain saw or whether she's figuring out how to use a Bosu ball as a trampoline so she can grab a pizza box that's resting on a file cabinet that's four and a half feet tall, she is a barrel of laughs. I'm definitely thankful for that.
OK, so here's the question I'm sure you'll hear more than once today: What are you thankful for? I, however, am adding a bit to that question. How does your pet (dog, cat, bird, horse, cow, squirrel, etc) make you even more grateful? It's important to remember how much they've impacted our lives.
Today, I want to take a moment to express my thanks to everyone for all their support in this growing business. I couldn't be more pleased with all we've accomplished in just under two years, and we would not have been able to do this if it weren't for your help. I know Thanksgiving is just one day out of the year, and I'm thankful every day for you, but today just seems like the perfect day to really let you know how appreciative I am.
That said, I'm also thankful for a few other creatures in my life: Cody, Lollie, Mo, and Stolte. My two dogs and two cats do so much to help keep me sane when life seems to be going crazy. Anyway, I thought I'd tell you a little more about them and why I'm so thankful they're around.
-Mo has been mine since he was 4 hours old (you read that right). He was tossed in a Walmart trash bin along with his 3 brothers and sisters and was rescued by a woman who happened to notice something strange about the bag they were in. I was only 16, but I bottle fed them and took charge of the 3am feedings. He's my needy child, but he's also a constant reminder of what can come when people do a little good. If that woman had decided to just keep walking, or if the rescue she took them to had turned them away, or if my mom had simply said we couldn't take them in, then he might not be here today. It took a lot of people doing a lot of good to make up for that one callous and cruel act, but those people exist. I'm thankful for that.
-Stolte was also bottle fed, although her story isn't quiet dramatic. Her mother was accidentally locked away from her (it's a long story), and by the time we found her and reunited mother and kitten, the mom wouldn't take her back. I happened to already know how to bottle feed a kitten (thanks to Mo), so I said I would take her in. It was my senior year of college, and I was freezing in Minnesota. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little depressed. Stolte made me happy. She made each day a little easier. I made friends with new people simply because they wanted to snuggle with a kitten too. She may be a bit undersocialized and my in-laws may call her demon-kitty, but she loves me and Hans, and she's happy when she's with us. I'm thankful for that.
-Cody I consider my first born. I love my cats, but I am admittedly a dog person through and through, and Cody was the first dog who was wholly and truly mine. He's the reason I went into dog training, and he was my motivation behind opening a kennel. If Cody had not come into my life I honestly don't know where I'd be or what I'd be doing. I could write a whole book on all that Cody has given me, but let's just say that I'm grateful for his mere existence.
-Lollie is my court jester. She came into my life through training, and she makes me laugh on a daily basis. She is by far one of the smartest dogs I've known, but I'd be eternally grateful if she'd learn to use her knowledge for good instead of evil as I tire of finding new ways to hide food from her. Whether she's snoring so loud she sounds like a chain saw or whether she's figuring out how to use a Bosu ball as a trampoline so she can grab a pizza box that's resting on a file cabinet that's four and a half feet tall, she is a barrel of laughs. I'm definitely thankful for that.
OK, so here's the question I'm sure you'll hear more than once today: What are you thankful for? I, however, am adding a bit to that question. How does your pet (dog, cat, bird, horse, cow, squirrel, etc) make you even more grateful? It's important to remember how much they've impacted our lives.
HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!!!!!!
Wednesday, November 13, 2013
New Virus
Have y'all heard about this new virus affecting dogs? It's called the circo-virus. In case you don't know what I'm talking about, here's a link:
http://m.nbc12.com/#!/newsDetail/23950879
OK, so that article made you panic a bit. I haven't spent a whole lot of time talking about it, though, because not a lot has been known about it. Plus, here's the thing, telling a dog owner to rush their dog to the vet if they notice lethargy, vomiting, or diarrhea is like telling the mother of a newborn to rush to the doctor if their kid sneezes. Yes, lethargy, vomiting, and diarrhea can be serious symptoms, particularly if they're all combined. However, sometimes a dog is just tired, or sometimes a dog will eat something that does not agree with it. Plus, generally lethargy accompanies vomiting and diarrhea (I know I don't tend to have a lot of energy when my stomach is upset).
For a less panicky description, follow the link below:
https://www.avma.org/kb/resources/pages/circovirus-in-dogs-frequently-asked-questions.aspx
A few things to note in this article:
1) The deaths in Ohio and Michigan have not been definitively linked to circo-virus. It's not completely ruled out, but I don't like to jump to conclusions.
2) Plenty of dogs have had traces of circovirus in their stool, but have never displayed symptoms.
3) General hygiene and care is the best preventative (until they eventually come out with a vaccine)
Otherwise, while it is good to keep a close eye out, it won't help you to panic. My best advice? Talk to your vet. Really find out about it. The media is good at spreading hype and panic, so just following news stories is not a good idea. Do your research, and keep an eye on your dog.
http://m.nbc12.com/#!/newsDetail/23950879
OK, so that article made you panic a bit. I haven't spent a whole lot of time talking about it, though, because not a lot has been known about it. Plus, here's the thing, telling a dog owner to rush their dog to the vet if they notice lethargy, vomiting, or diarrhea is like telling the mother of a newborn to rush to the doctor if their kid sneezes. Yes, lethargy, vomiting, and diarrhea can be serious symptoms, particularly if they're all combined. However, sometimes a dog is just tired, or sometimes a dog will eat something that does not agree with it. Plus, generally lethargy accompanies vomiting and diarrhea (I know I don't tend to have a lot of energy when my stomach is upset).
For a less panicky description, follow the link below:
https://www.avma.org/kb/resources/pages/circovirus-in-dogs-frequently-asked-questions.aspx
A few things to note in this article:
1) The deaths in Ohio and Michigan have not been definitively linked to circo-virus. It's not completely ruled out, but I don't like to jump to conclusions.
2) Plenty of dogs have had traces of circovirus in their stool, but have never displayed symptoms.
3) General hygiene and care is the best preventative (until they eventually come out with a vaccine)
Otherwise, while it is good to keep a close eye out, it won't help you to panic. My best advice? Talk to your vet. Really find out about it. The media is good at spreading hype and panic, so just following news stories is not a good idea. Do your research, and keep an eye on your dog.
Tuesday, November 5, 2013
The Crate of Doom
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Sorry! Apparently Lollie wanted to say, "Hi!" while I was away from my desk.
Anyway, we have another question today. Today's question is about a dog who is scared of his new, wire crate.
When we first got Ruger we "crate trained" him. I use "" because I know we could have done a much better job of it but he was happy to go in his crate (that we kept getting larger as he got larger) but about 4 months ago he outgrew the largest airport/carrier crate they made so we had to go to a larger metal collapsible crate. He is TERRIFIED of it, we put him in with treats, we've tried putting his food in there but he won't eat it (days on end), we've tried covering it more like a "den" but he brings the blanket in between the slats and starts chewing on it, we've never put him in there as a punishment (same as his old crates) and whenever we had put him in any of his crates we always put a bone for him to chew on as well as a treat. It's reached the point we are having to full on carry him in the larger metal crate (and at 100lbs it's not easy). What else can we do?
This is a surprisingly easy fix, but it does require a little bit of time and effort.
Step 1: Teach him to simply go in the crate.
The key here is not to force him to stay in it, but to teach him that going in it is fun. Really, you can do this a number of ways. You can have him follow a trail of high-value treats into the crate, you can try to get him to take a running start and lead him into the crate, or you can throw his favorite toy into the crate (I would try to avoid simply forcing and shoving him in). Once he goes in (and this may take some time) give him a huge reward. I prefer to use a handful of hot dogs or cheese, something my dog really like. I'll make a big deal of how good he was for going in, give him the treats, and let him out. Repeat this for a while until Ruger is happily entering the crate. Remember, he doesn't have to stay in there for any length of time. He just has to go in.
Step 2: Lengthen his stay.
Once he's happily entering his crate, encourage him to stay in the crate longer by giving him more treats. I'll generally use an initial command like "go to bed" to get him to enter, and then I lengthen by treating and saying, "Good, good bed." Of course, you would not go from 0-5 minutes right away. You may start by having him remain in the crate for just a few seconds, and gradually lengthen his time in there to a minute or two.
Step 3: Shut the door.
Once his time in the crate has lengthened to a minute or so, take it back a step. Have him go in the crate, treat him a few times for staying in there, then shut the door. Leave the door shut just long enough to give him a treat through the wires, then open the door. Once he seems OK with this, return to lengthening his time in the crate, this time with the door shut.
Step 4: Put it all together.
Now is the moment of truth. See if he will enter the crate, stay in there, and allow you to shut the door all without panicking. Instead of simply feeding him treats at this point, I would give him something to occupy his time (a Kong or some other puzzle toy is helpful). He shouldn't stay in there long, maybe just long enough to finish his toy, but by this point he should be able to stay without panicking and without you right next to him.
After following all these steps, Ruger should be able to enter his crate with ease, and you should quickly be able to leave him in the crate while you leave for bouts of time. I will say, though, if Ruger has issues with even going near his crate, you may need to start with one step earlier. If he won't even go near the crate, teach him to walk in a heel next to the crate and around the crate until it is no longer scary. You can also have him down-stay next to the crate and reward him for that.
For most dogs, this a fairly short process and may only take a few days to a week to really get down (depending on how much you work with him). I have full faith that Ruger will get the hang of things quickly and life will return to somewhat normal soon.
Good luck!
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Sorry! Apparently Lollie wanted to say, "Hi!" while I was away from my desk.
Anyway, we have another question today. Today's question is about a dog who is scared of his new, wire crate.
When we first got Ruger we "crate trained" him. I use "" because I know we could have done a much better job of it but he was happy to go in his crate (that we kept getting larger as he got larger) but about 4 months ago he outgrew the largest airport/carrier crate they made so we had to go to a larger metal collapsible crate. He is TERRIFIED of it, we put him in with treats, we've tried putting his food in there but he won't eat it (days on end), we've tried covering it more like a "den" but he brings the blanket in between the slats and starts chewing on it, we've never put him in there as a punishment (same as his old crates) and whenever we had put him in any of his crates we always put a bone for him to chew on as well as a treat. It's reached the point we are having to full on carry him in the larger metal crate (and at 100lbs it's not easy). What else can we do?
This is a surprisingly easy fix, but it does require a little bit of time and effort.
Step 1: Teach him to simply go in the crate.
The key here is not to force him to stay in it, but to teach him that going in it is fun. Really, you can do this a number of ways. You can have him follow a trail of high-value treats into the crate, you can try to get him to take a running start and lead him into the crate, or you can throw his favorite toy into the crate (I would try to avoid simply forcing and shoving him in). Once he goes in (and this may take some time) give him a huge reward. I prefer to use a handful of hot dogs or cheese, something my dog really like. I'll make a big deal of how good he was for going in, give him the treats, and let him out. Repeat this for a while until Ruger is happily entering the crate. Remember, he doesn't have to stay in there for any length of time. He just has to go in.
Step 2: Lengthen his stay.
Once he's happily entering his crate, encourage him to stay in the crate longer by giving him more treats. I'll generally use an initial command like "go to bed" to get him to enter, and then I lengthen by treating and saying, "Good, good bed." Of course, you would not go from 0-5 minutes right away. You may start by having him remain in the crate for just a few seconds, and gradually lengthen his time in there to a minute or two.
Step 3: Shut the door.
Once his time in the crate has lengthened to a minute or so, take it back a step. Have him go in the crate, treat him a few times for staying in there, then shut the door. Leave the door shut just long enough to give him a treat through the wires, then open the door. Once he seems OK with this, return to lengthening his time in the crate, this time with the door shut.
Step 4: Put it all together.
Now is the moment of truth. See if he will enter the crate, stay in there, and allow you to shut the door all without panicking. Instead of simply feeding him treats at this point, I would give him something to occupy his time (a Kong or some other puzzle toy is helpful). He shouldn't stay in there long, maybe just long enough to finish his toy, but by this point he should be able to stay without panicking and without you right next to him.
After following all these steps, Ruger should be able to enter his crate with ease, and you should quickly be able to leave him in the crate while you leave for bouts of time. I will say, though, if Ruger has issues with even going near his crate, you may need to start with one step earlier. If he won't even go near the crate, teach him to walk in a heel next to the crate and around the crate until it is no longer scary. You can also have him down-stay next to the crate and reward him for that.
For most dogs, this a fairly short process and may only take a few days to a week to really get down (depending on how much you work with him). I have full faith that Ruger will get the hang of things quickly and life will return to somewhat normal soon.
Good luck!
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