As you may or may not have noticed, I haven't done a post in a while. If you're a client at the kennel, you may have also noticed that Hans and I haven't been around as much, and I want to take a moment to explain why.
Let's start with the happy news:
On May 30th, I gave birth to a darling baby girl, Anna. She was 2 weeks and 1 day early and arrived via emergency c-section. It was a whirlwind of events, but it was wonderful. We spent a lovely 8 weeks together, and then I was ready to return to work, but my mom, who was supposed to watch her while I worked, was having severe back issues and couldn't manage. So, I had to start making alternate arrangements. That's when we got the bad news.
The bad news:
On July 14th, Hans and my anniversary, I got a call saying that my mom had been admitted to the ER. She'd had an MRI to find out what was plaguing her back, and they'd found 2 masses on her spine. Another MRI, a CT scan, and a biopsy, showed us that she had stage iv lung cancer. Everything came to a halt.
Suddenly, I was left with the task of not just caring for a two month old, but also caring for my mother.
Since then, Mom has moved into our house. Her dogs have joined our family pack. Hans and I have kept busy shuttling Mom to and from doctor's appointments, caring for Anna, and simply taking care of daily life. We've been working hard to stay on top of things at the kennel, and we still love being there, but sometimes family just has to come first.
Whether you're a loyal client, you read this blog regularly, or you're just passing by, I think you deserve to know what's going on. All of the people who enter the kennel are more than just clients. They're part of my family. I miss spending time with my large, lovely family, and I would hate it if any of you thought that I wasn't around simply because I didn't want to be there. I'll be there as often as possible, and I'll be thrilled to see you.
Note: Some of you may have seen a post on our Facebook page regarding Takethemameal.com. This is a lovely effort by some friends of mine to try to get others to help out with some of our food needs. If anyone is interested in assisting, visit: www.takethemameal.com. The last name is Alexander, and the password is lungevity. Thank you!
Wednesday, August 13, 2014
Thursday, March 6, 2014
Personal Protection
It's time to answer another question! This one is about a woman who's looking for a little protection.
I have an American Pitbull Terrier who possess zero aggression. I know they are naturally people loving dogs and am grateful that she possesses no dog aggression but, I always thought she would protect me, a single woman in a big city if I ever encountered an aggressive person. Well this very thing has happened and my "vicious pitbull" hid behind me with her tail between her legs, and did nothing but whimper while we were being accosted. Similar situations have occurred and if the approaching party is aggressive, she runs. If they are mentally ill or drunk she tries to make friends, wagging her tail and motioning for them to show her attention which they often do. I have taught her a command (no stranger) and that has helped a bit with ignoring strangers. I have had dogs before and they were always aware and unwelcoming of people in their wrong minds. My dog lacks this sense. I semi-successfully have trained her to growl on the command "protect" but she, lays down, waggs her tail, and looks to me for the treat. I'm afraid I've gone all wrong with this "protect" command. And even more, I'm afraid she will never protect me. She is 4 1/2 years old. Do you have any advice that could help me to increase her discernment and protection?
Ok, my biggest question is why? I know you want some protection from your dog, but it frankly seems like this dog does not have the temperament for it. By teaching her, at this point, that it's OK to show any form of aggression or dominance, you could end up creating a mess of trouble. Rather than teaching her to growl or protect, I'd focus on rewarding her for acting happy and comfortable around people. Reward her when she's not acting scared or fearful, but rather when she is being outgoing.
So, what do you do about your protection? Well, there are plenty of options here. If you want a dog for protection, get a personal protection dog. These dogs are bred and trained to be there for you with just one command. You really don't have to worry about them being overly protective, because their drive to bite is not driven by fear. It's driven by play and obedience...a much safer combination than fear.
You could also opt for non-living forms of protection. A tazer or mace are both great options and are a great way to protect both yourself AND your dog. For long walks, I've known more than one person to walk with mace or even something as simple as a bat or stick just to have a little something more.
You may also want to find a walking buddy or a group to walk with, as there's safety in numbers.
All of these options are better than teaching your 4 1/2 year old pet dog to growl at strangers; particularly if she's a submissive dog who only really wants to be loved to start with.
I have an American Pitbull Terrier who possess zero aggression. I know they are naturally people loving dogs and am grateful that she possesses no dog aggression but, I always thought she would protect me, a single woman in a big city if I ever encountered an aggressive person. Well this very thing has happened and my "vicious pitbull" hid behind me with her tail between her legs, and did nothing but whimper while we were being accosted. Similar situations have occurred and if the approaching party is aggressive, she runs. If they are mentally ill or drunk she tries to make friends, wagging her tail and motioning for them to show her attention which they often do. I have taught her a command (no stranger) and that has helped a bit with ignoring strangers. I have had dogs before and they were always aware and unwelcoming of people in their wrong minds. My dog lacks this sense. I semi-successfully have trained her to growl on the command "protect" but she, lays down, waggs her tail, and looks to me for the treat. I'm afraid I've gone all wrong with this "protect" command. And even more, I'm afraid she will never protect me. She is 4 1/2 years old. Do you have any advice that could help me to increase her discernment and protection?
Ok, my biggest question is why? I know you want some protection from your dog, but it frankly seems like this dog does not have the temperament for it. By teaching her, at this point, that it's OK to show any form of aggression or dominance, you could end up creating a mess of trouble. Rather than teaching her to growl or protect, I'd focus on rewarding her for acting happy and comfortable around people. Reward her when she's not acting scared or fearful, but rather when she is being outgoing.
So, what do you do about your protection? Well, there are plenty of options here. If you want a dog for protection, get a personal protection dog. These dogs are bred and trained to be there for you with just one command. You really don't have to worry about them being overly protective, because their drive to bite is not driven by fear. It's driven by play and obedience...a much safer combination than fear.
You could also opt for non-living forms of protection. A tazer or mace are both great options and are a great way to protect both yourself AND your dog. For long walks, I've known more than one person to walk with mace or even something as simple as a bat or stick just to have a little something more.
You may also want to find a walking buddy or a group to walk with, as there's safety in numbers.
All of these options are better than teaching your 4 1/2 year old pet dog to growl at strangers; particularly if she's a submissive dog who only really wants to be loved to start with.
Tuesday, February 4, 2014
Preparing For A New Baby
In case you haven't heard yet, my husband and I are expecting our first child in June. It's a wild and crazy time for us, but this journey doesn't just involve the two of us. It also involves our dogs and cats (otherwise known as our "first born"). Things may get stressful for us, but at least we know exactly what's happening. Cody and Lollie, however, may end up having a much harder time of things. So, for all those who are facing the same predicament, here are some tips.
Hans and I are lucky in that both Cody and Lollie have spent a lot of time with small children, and their life is in constant upheaval (ah, the life of a business owner). But if your dog hasn't gotten used to kids yet, and you're considering children in the near future, don't wait to get started. Don't assume everything will be fine because your dog loves you. Start getting her used to the new situation now. Don't wait for the baby to come home, and don't wait until your pregnant. Plan ahead a little. Oh, and have fun!!!
1) Train your dog.
Obedience training
can definitely be an asset when bringing a new baby into the home. Imagine taking your dog on a walk. Now imagine it with a stroller and diaper
bag. Scary thought, huh? Teaching your dog basic commands such as
down, off, stay, and heel will make life much easier once the baby’s in the
home.
2) Keep your dog off furniture.
At the very least,
teach your dog to ask permission (sit, down, etc.) before jumping up. This is important if your child is on your bed. Your dog could jump up and not even realize
the child is there, causing at the least a scratch and the worst serious
damage.
3) Consider Crate Training
Crate training is
less for the baby’s safety and more for the dog’s. The crate provides a quiet, secure, area
where your dog can sleep or relax undisturbed.
It is also important to teach your children (and their friends) that the
crate is your dog’s quiet area…like a meditation room.
4) Start Socializing.
Get your dog used to
children. Children cry and scream and
run around. They smell funny and make
funny noises. They don’t pet, they
smack. They often pull on ears and
tails, climb on, and chase. They stick
their fingers in eyes and ears and food bowls.
They come along with very odd accessories like diapers and strollers and
cribs. They get cool “dog” toys that the
dog can’t have. Oh, and they get all of
Mom’s and Dad’s attention. Get your dog
used to all of these. Try walking him
with a stroller. Hold a baby doll. Any sort of baby-item that uses batteries or
electricity should be turned on at some point.
Take your dog to play grounds (the younger the dog the better). Record the sound of a baby crying and play it
on a nightly basis for your dog (you might get used to it too). Oh, and don’t forget that your dog’s schedule
will change. Prepare your dog for
early-morning feedings. Throw off his
eating and walking schedule. Basically,
let your dog know that all the changes are not necessarily due to the new baby.
Hans and I are lucky in that both Cody and Lollie have spent a lot of time with small children, and their life is in constant upheaval (ah, the life of a business owner). But if your dog hasn't gotten used to kids yet, and you're considering children in the near future, don't wait to get started. Don't assume everything will be fine because your dog loves you. Start getting her used to the new situation now. Don't wait for the baby to come home, and don't wait until your pregnant. Plan ahead a little. Oh, and have fun!!!
Tuesday, January 21, 2014
Old Dog, New Trick
Thanks for this blog. I have a question, wondering if you could help. I
have an 11-year-old collie, very healthy. We're moving to an area that
has no grass or park to let her lose nearby.
The problem is that over the years we have always lived near a park and she got used to ONLY pee or poop over grass, over leaves or snow. She has never peed on asphalt, sidewalk or the curb.
Do you know how can I teach her to go on the curb at this age? Any help will be appreciated. Thank you much!
Alright, so my first thought here is, "Find some grass." Your dog is 11, and while she's perfectly capable of learning new things, it's not always fair to ask her to change her life that much. Is there even just a small tree with some dirt that you could take her to?
Let's assume, though, that there really is no other option. Well, that's when you kind of have to go back go potty training 101. You do have one advantage, though. Your dog already knows not to go potty inside.
If your dog doesn't know one yet, start off by teaching a potty command. When your dog uses the bathroom, put a command with it. Say something like "Go potty!" or "Hurry up!" Really, the words you use don't matter so much, just so long as your consistent. I've had some people use "Ketchup" to mean go pee, and "mustard" to mean go poop. Then, reward your dog for using the potty by providing a small, tasty treat. It won't take long before you'll be able to use this command and have your dog respond by using the bathroom.
Next, stop allowing your dog to run loose to potty. Keep the leash attached and use that "go potty" command. Reward your dog for using the potty on command. Now you're ready to go to the city.
When it's about time for your dog to potty, take her outside, and use her go potty command. She might not respond at first as she's used to the feel and smell of grass and dirt. If she doesn't potty, don't make a big deal of it. Just take her back inside. Here's the key, though. Don't allow her to simply run around free. Keep her on leash so she can't just run off and hide her potty somewhere in your house.
After 5-10 minutes, try again. Take her outside and tell her, "Go potty." Repeat these two steps until she actually goes. When she does, give her tons of praise and rewards (make sure she's actually done going as you don't want to startle her into stopping). Then, lead her back inside where she can have her usual freedom.
Obviously, this is going to take a little time (a couple weeks to prep at least), and it may take some extra time when you first move, so adjust your schedule accordingly.
A few more tips for when you move: Make sure you keep her potty spot fairly consistent to start off. She'll quickly start to see that as her potty spot. Also, if you can find a spot where other area dogs tend to potty, go there. Their scents may help encourage her to potty as well.
Good luck on your move, and be gentle with your gal. This is a big adjustment for her too!
The problem is that over the years we have always lived near a park and she got used to ONLY pee or poop over grass, over leaves or snow. She has never peed on asphalt, sidewalk or the curb.
Do you know how can I teach her to go on the curb at this age? Any help will be appreciated. Thank you much!
Alright, so my first thought here is, "Find some grass." Your dog is 11, and while she's perfectly capable of learning new things, it's not always fair to ask her to change her life that much. Is there even just a small tree with some dirt that you could take her to?
Let's assume, though, that there really is no other option. Well, that's when you kind of have to go back go potty training 101. You do have one advantage, though. Your dog already knows not to go potty inside.
If your dog doesn't know one yet, start off by teaching a potty command. When your dog uses the bathroom, put a command with it. Say something like "Go potty!" or "Hurry up!" Really, the words you use don't matter so much, just so long as your consistent. I've had some people use "Ketchup" to mean go pee, and "mustard" to mean go poop. Then, reward your dog for using the potty by providing a small, tasty treat. It won't take long before you'll be able to use this command and have your dog respond by using the bathroom.
Next, stop allowing your dog to run loose to potty. Keep the leash attached and use that "go potty" command. Reward your dog for using the potty on command. Now you're ready to go to the city.
When it's about time for your dog to potty, take her outside, and use her go potty command. She might not respond at first as she's used to the feel and smell of grass and dirt. If she doesn't potty, don't make a big deal of it. Just take her back inside. Here's the key, though. Don't allow her to simply run around free. Keep her on leash so she can't just run off and hide her potty somewhere in your house.
After 5-10 minutes, try again. Take her outside and tell her, "Go potty." Repeat these two steps until she actually goes. When she does, give her tons of praise and rewards (make sure she's actually done going as you don't want to startle her into stopping). Then, lead her back inside where she can have her usual freedom.
Obviously, this is going to take a little time (a couple weeks to prep at least), and it may take some extra time when you first move, so adjust your schedule accordingly.
A few more tips for when you move: Make sure you keep her potty spot fairly consistent to start off. She'll quickly start to see that as her potty spot. Also, if you can find a spot where other area dogs tend to potty, go there. Their scents may help encourage her to potty as well.
Good luck on your move, and be gentle with your gal. This is a big adjustment for her too!
Tuesday, January 14, 2014
The Big Bully
Hello all! I'm so sorry for the delay in posts. Time just got a little away from me. I've received some really great questions recently, though, so I'm hoping to catch up here soon. For this post, I've received a question regarding a large dog and some young kids.
I have a question and would really appreciate any help. My husband and I got a bull mastiff- Rottweiler mix 7 months ago and he started being aggressive with our 3 year old and 1 year old right away. He is fine with me and my husband but growls at the kids. He has growled very viciously since bringing him home. He growls if they pet him on his back or get close to him when he has, food, water, or a bone. Sometimes he growls for no reason. The kids are never mean to him and are never alone with him. We tried getting him trained two weeks straight with no change. He has actually nipped my 3 year old son once that didn't draw blood but did leave a mark and make him cry. My question is ..is there any hope for him or do you think he will always be aggressive? We don't have money to get him trained anymore. He hasn't been fixed yet but people keep saying he will stop being aggressive after he's fixed but he's been doing this all along. Would appreciate your advice on to keep him or not. Thanks so much!
This is actually a really difficult question to answer, but my primary instinct is to say that he's probably not a good fit for you family. Let me explain.
First, kids are not like normal people. I'm sure you see your 3 year old a small person who's just cute and learning. Your dog does not see them this way. To your dog, a 3 year old is an alien creature who talks in a really weird language and doesn't quite walk right. That's pretty scary! Don't even get me started on what a 1 year old is like to your dog!!
Secondly, as much as you work with your dog, you also have to work with your kids. Most kids see dogs as something soft and snuggly that they can play with. Even kids that are cautious with dogs end up interacting with differently with them than an adult would. The way they pet and talk and look at a dog are all different, and the way your dog looks at them is different too. Trying to teach a very young child the exactly perfect way to approach, pet, and handle your dog is, well I don't like to use the word "impossible," but it's extremely difficult.
Third, your dog has already bitten your 3 year old. He's already setting the tone, and chances are things will end up getting worse before they get better. You're putting both the dog and the child at risk by keeping them together.
Fourth, this is not something that developed over time. You did not bring in a dog 7 months ago who was well-socialized to kids but then developed a few issues. Your brought in a dog 7 months ago who didn't like kids from the get-go. Changing that is going to be difficult.
Lastly, simply the time and commitment it would take to make things better. It's certainly not impossible to help your dog, but it will take a lot of work (far longer than 2 weeks) and a lot of time. In my experience, most parents of 2 young kids just don't have the time or the energy to handle that (a big applause to you if you do).
Now then, all that being said, there are a couple of things I'd like to clarify about all I said.
1) Age will make a difference here, and I haven't met your dog. No offense, but I always worry when someone tells me their dog is aggressive. Many times, what they see as aggression is really just overgrown hyper puppy. Having never met your dog or seen how he acts around your kids, I am really just assuming that what you're saying is completely accurate.
2) Notice that at no point did I think your dog should be put down / euthanized. Just because he's not a great fit for your family doesn't mean he wouldn't be a great fit for someone else. It could just be that he's not great with kids, but would do wonderfully in a home free of children.
I really hope this answers your question. I'm sorry I couldn't give you a more positive response, but I really worry when young kids are involved. Good luck!
I have a question and would really appreciate any help. My husband and I got a bull mastiff- Rottweiler mix 7 months ago and he started being aggressive with our 3 year old and 1 year old right away. He is fine with me and my husband but growls at the kids. He has growled very viciously since bringing him home. He growls if they pet him on his back or get close to him when he has, food, water, or a bone. Sometimes he growls for no reason. The kids are never mean to him and are never alone with him. We tried getting him trained two weeks straight with no change. He has actually nipped my 3 year old son once that didn't draw blood but did leave a mark and make him cry. My question is ..is there any hope for him or do you think he will always be aggressive? We don't have money to get him trained anymore. He hasn't been fixed yet but people keep saying he will stop being aggressive after he's fixed but he's been doing this all along. Would appreciate your advice on to keep him or not. Thanks so much!
This is actually a really difficult question to answer, but my primary instinct is to say that he's probably not a good fit for you family. Let me explain.
First, kids are not like normal people. I'm sure you see your 3 year old a small person who's just cute and learning. Your dog does not see them this way. To your dog, a 3 year old is an alien creature who talks in a really weird language and doesn't quite walk right. That's pretty scary! Don't even get me started on what a 1 year old is like to your dog!!
Secondly, as much as you work with your dog, you also have to work with your kids. Most kids see dogs as something soft and snuggly that they can play with. Even kids that are cautious with dogs end up interacting with differently with them than an adult would. The way they pet and talk and look at a dog are all different, and the way your dog looks at them is different too. Trying to teach a very young child the exactly perfect way to approach, pet, and handle your dog is, well I don't like to use the word "impossible," but it's extremely difficult.
Third, your dog has already bitten your 3 year old. He's already setting the tone, and chances are things will end up getting worse before they get better. You're putting both the dog and the child at risk by keeping them together.
Fourth, this is not something that developed over time. You did not bring in a dog 7 months ago who was well-socialized to kids but then developed a few issues. Your brought in a dog 7 months ago who didn't like kids from the get-go. Changing that is going to be difficult.
Lastly, simply the time and commitment it would take to make things better. It's certainly not impossible to help your dog, but it will take a lot of work (far longer than 2 weeks) and a lot of time. In my experience, most parents of 2 young kids just don't have the time or the energy to handle that (a big applause to you if you do).
Now then, all that being said, there are a couple of things I'd like to clarify about all I said.
1) Age will make a difference here, and I haven't met your dog. No offense, but I always worry when someone tells me their dog is aggressive. Many times, what they see as aggression is really just overgrown hyper puppy. Having never met your dog or seen how he acts around your kids, I am really just assuming that what you're saying is completely accurate.
2) Notice that at no point did I think your dog should be put down / euthanized. Just because he's not a great fit for your family doesn't mean he wouldn't be a great fit for someone else. It could just be that he's not great with kids, but would do wonderfully in a home free of children.
I really hope this answers your question. I'm sorry I couldn't give you a more positive response, but I really worry when young kids are involved. Good luck!
Monday, December 16, 2013
Holidays
It is around this time of year that I get a slew of questions regarding the holidays. People ask things like:
Should I take my dog with me on vacation?
What should I do with my dog when the family comes over?
Is it safe for my dog to have turkey / ham / pecan pie / etc?
How can I keep my dog from jumping on the table / people / etc?
Are poinsettias really bad for my dog?
Where should I place my Christmas tree so I know my dog won't damage it?
The thing with most of these questions is that they all depend on your dog and your lifestyle. So, let me first address the more generic questions.
Is it safe for my dog to have turkey / ham / pecan pie / etc?
I'll be honest. I'm fairly lax here and will often give my dogs a small treat or let them lick my plate. However, just like with most things, there is definitely such a thing as too much of a good thing. I would never give my dogs a whole plate of turkey or even their own slice of pie. Chances are it would make them sick, and I'd be left cleaning up the mess. And there are a few things that aren't so great for any dog. Raisins (which are found in many Christmas desserts) can be dangerous and pork is almost guaranteed to make them sick.
How can I keep my dog from jumping on the table / people / etc?
If I've said it once, I've said it a thousand times: obedience, obedience, obedience. A dog who is in a down / stay or place is not going to jump on the table or your grandmother. In addition to that, though, a lot of exercise will help your dog stay a little more relaxed and that should help keep them on all four paws as well. Lastly, if your dog is not trained and you don't think you're going to monitor him / her, consider boarding or day care. I'd rather you drop your dog off somewhere for a night than get horribly frustrated. There are enough frustrations during the holidays. Your dog shouldn't be one of them!
Are poinsettias really bad for my dog?
Surprisingly no. Most people think the white sap and the red leaves in a poinsettia are deadly for both dogs and cats, but that's a myth. While the berries can be somewhat toxic, poinsettias pretty much have a needlessly bad rap. Still, though, you must ask yourself if you're OK with your dog or cat eating your plants. If you're not, you may want to stick with an artificial version (I have one at the kennel that's nice to be able to use year after year).
For all the other questions, it really depends on your dog. Do you have a calm dog? Does your dog enjoy traveling? Is your dog fully house trained? Are you willing to watch your dog a little more than normal while there are new distractions? What about your family? Are they dog people too, or are they having trouble comprehending why you would want anything in your house that has fur on it?
Personally, my dogs are always part of the festivities. They travel with me, and they're there for everything except Christmas Mass. They're well-behaved through Christmas dinner, and I just keep a little extra eye on them as people start coming in (they love being around new people and will sometimes get a little over-excited). Not everyone is like that, though, and not everyone has a family that is as dog-friendly as mine. If you think your dog may cause more trouble than you can handle, it may be best to board your dog, have a friend watch your dog, or even just put your dog in a separate room for a few hours.
I hope the next few weeks find you relaxed and happy. No matter what your plans for your dog over the holidays, spend this next week enjoying your dog. Go for long walks, play games, just have a good time. I promise it will put you in a good mood and in more of the holiday spirit!
HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!
Should I take my dog with me on vacation?
What should I do with my dog when the family comes over?
Is it safe for my dog to have turkey / ham / pecan pie / etc?
How can I keep my dog from jumping on the table / people / etc?
Are poinsettias really bad for my dog?
Where should I place my Christmas tree so I know my dog won't damage it?
The thing with most of these questions is that they all depend on your dog and your lifestyle. So, let me first address the more generic questions.
Is it safe for my dog to have turkey / ham / pecan pie / etc?
I'll be honest. I'm fairly lax here and will often give my dogs a small treat or let them lick my plate. However, just like with most things, there is definitely such a thing as too much of a good thing. I would never give my dogs a whole plate of turkey or even their own slice of pie. Chances are it would make them sick, and I'd be left cleaning up the mess. And there are a few things that aren't so great for any dog. Raisins (which are found in many Christmas desserts) can be dangerous and pork is almost guaranteed to make them sick.
How can I keep my dog from jumping on the table / people / etc?
If I've said it once, I've said it a thousand times: obedience, obedience, obedience. A dog who is in a down / stay or place is not going to jump on the table or your grandmother. In addition to that, though, a lot of exercise will help your dog stay a little more relaxed and that should help keep them on all four paws as well. Lastly, if your dog is not trained and you don't think you're going to monitor him / her, consider boarding or day care. I'd rather you drop your dog off somewhere for a night than get horribly frustrated. There are enough frustrations during the holidays. Your dog shouldn't be one of them!
Are poinsettias really bad for my dog?
Surprisingly no. Most people think the white sap and the red leaves in a poinsettia are deadly for both dogs and cats, but that's a myth. While the berries can be somewhat toxic, poinsettias pretty much have a needlessly bad rap. Still, though, you must ask yourself if you're OK with your dog or cat eating your plants. If you're not, you may want to stick with an artificial version (I have one at the kennel that's nice to be able to use year after year).
For all the other questions, it really depends on your dog. Do you have a calm dog? Does your dog enjoy traveling? Is your dog fully house trained? Are you willing to watch your dog a little more than normal while there are new distractions? What about your family? Are they dog people too, or are they having trouble comprehending why you would want anything in your house that has fur on it?
Personally, my dogs are always part of the festivities. They travel with me, and they're there for everything except Christmas Mass. They're well-behaved through Christmas dinner, and I just keep a little extra eye on them as people start coming in (they love being around new people and will sometimes get a little over-excited). Not everyone is like that, though, and not everyone has a family that is as dog-friendly as mine. If you think your dog may cause more trouble than you can handle, it may be best to board your dog, have a friend watch your dog, or even just put your dog in a separate room for a few hours.
I hope the next few weeks find you relaxed and happy. No matter what your plans for your dog over the holidays, spend this next week enjoying your dog. Go for long walks, play games, just have a good time. I promise it will put you in a good mood and in more of the holiday spirit!
HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!
Tuesday, December 3, 2013
Jack the Jack Russell Is Being a Jack A**
About 5 months ago, my family adopted a 1 ½ year old neutered jack
Russell/poodle mix (we think!) named Jack from the SPCA. He has proven
to be a challenge, but until recently we have not had any issues that
aren’t fixable through simple training. On Thanksgiving day, Jack
somehow got a hold of a cotton swab and took it into his crate with him.
I idiotically reached in to get it from him, and he left some nasty
bite wounds on my hand. Yesterday, my dad had the leftover turkey on the
kitchen counter, and when he left the room for a minute, Jack managed
to grab a turkey leg and bring it into his crate. My dad had to use a
garden rake to retrieve it, which Jack proceeded to bite and attack the
rake throughout the process. Today, my mom had the turkey out on the
counter, and when I stepped in front of Jack in attempt to get him away
from the turkey, he immediately went into attack mode; if I had not been
wearing plush slippers, there’s a good chance I’d be in the emergency
room right now. Other than this newfound aggression over turkey, Jack is
a sweet, affectionate and playful dog. It would be my worst nightmare
to have him put down over this. I understand that there are no quick
fixes to such severe behavioral issues, but my family and I obviously
cannot go on living in fear of Jack attacking every time we eat. PLEASE
HELP!
Let me start by saying that this is a VERY serious issue. Biting of any kind is concerning, but the fact that he's biting to the point of breaking skin and possibly needing stitches is worrisome. So, what should you do?
The first thing I would do would be to take away any possibility of him getting anything he shouldn't have. How do you do this you ask. Well, you have to make sure you can monitor him at all times. The best way to do this is to utilize two different tools: The leash and the crate. When he's with the family have him on leash, attached to someone who can keep a good hold of him. When no one can watch him, put him in a crate.
Next comes training. He needs to learn how to listen to you. Even just one command will go a long way. For this instance, I would teach him a solid recall (come) or a sit. That way, if he does happen to get a hold of something he shouldn't have, you can give him a command to call him away from it. Ideally, though, you would put him through a good, solid training program. I like to make dogs work for all the things they really want in life (to go outside, to eat, to play, etc). Essentially, he'll learn that everything good comes from you and he has to work for it.
After that, we need to work on desensitization. I'd start when he's eating his food. Start by giving him his regular food, and every few seconds drop a high-value treat in his bowl (hot dog, cheese, etc). Don't move around him or pet him. Just drop the treat in his bowl. After a while he'll start to recognize that your approach of his food is a good thing. He may start to wait for you to give him the treat, or he may just start wagging his tail when you approach him. At that point, you can try moving away from him and returning to him before dropping the treat. When you get tail wags for that, try taking things up another notch. Try approaching from different directions, then try touching him, all while giving him treats. This will help him learn that your approach does not necessarily mean he's going to lose something good. Rather, he may gain something better.
Lastly, if he does happen to get something he shouldn't, don't just try to take it away. Try to trade it for something better. Offer him a toy or a better treat. See if there's something special enough for him to give up. That way, it's no longer a fight over who gets the treat, but rather an opportunity for him to have something better (in his eyes anyway).
I will recommend that you consult a professional trainer as well (more than just on this blog). It's hard to diagnose and treat an issue without meeting the dog or knowing the family dynamic, so it's best if someone is able to meet with you.
Good luck with Jack. I know it's a lot of hard work, but having someone who is willing to work with him is extremely important for Jack right now. Many rescues won't spend much time with a dog who shows severe aggression, and even if they do work with him, it becomes difficult to transfer his good behavior into a new home with new rules. I wish you the best!
Let me start by saying that this is a VERY serious issue. Biting of any kind is concerning, but the fact that he's biting to the point of breaking skin and possibly needing stitches is worrisome. So, what should you do?
The first thing I would do would be to take away any possibility of him getting anything he shouldn't have. How do you do this you ask. Well, you have to make sure you can monitor him at all times. The best way to do this is to utilize two different tools: The leash and the crate. When he's with the family have him on leash, attached to someone who can keep a good hold of him. When no one can watch him, put him in a crate.
Next comes training. He needs to learn how to listen to you. Even just one command will go a long way. For this instance, I would teach him a solid recall (come) or a sit. That way, if he does happen to get a hold of something he shouldn't have, you can give him a command to call him away from it. Ideally, though, you would put him through a good, solid training program. I like to make dogs work for all the things they really want in life (to go outside, to eat, to play, etc). Essentially, he'll learn that everything good comes from you and he has to work for it.
After that, we need to work on desensitization. I'd start when he's eating his food. Start by giving him his regular food, and every few seconds drop a high-value treat in his bowl (hot dog, cheese, etc). Don't move around him or pet him. Just drop the treat in his bowl. After a while he'll start to recognize that your approach of his food is a good thing. He may start to wait for you to give him the treat, or he may just start wagging his tail when you approach him. At that point, you can try moving away from him and returning to him before dropping the treat. When you get tail wags for that, try taking things up another notch. Try approaching from different directions, then try touching him, all while giving him treats. This will help him learn that your approach does not necessarily mean he's going to lose something good. Rather, he may gain something better.
Lastly, if he does happen to get something he shouldn't, don't just try to take it away. Try to trade it for something better. Offer him a toy or a better treat. See if there's something special enough for him to give up. That way, it's no longer a fight over who gets the treat, but rather an opportunity for him to have something better (in his eyes anyway).
I will recommend that you consult a professional trainer as well (more than just on this blog). It's hard to diagnose and treat an issue without meeting the dog or knowing the family dynamic, so it's best if someone is able to meet with you.
Good luck with Jack. I know it's a lot of hard work, but having someone who is willing to work with him is extremely important for Jack right now. Many rescues won't spend much time with a dog who shows severe aggression, and even if they do work with him, it becomes difficult to transfer his good behavior into a new home with new rules. I wish you the best!
Thursday, November 28, 2013
Thankful
Usually this blog is a source of information for many. I'll answer questions or post interesting tidbits (well, interesting to me any way). But, today is Thanksgiving, so I'm taking a little break from that. I could post information on how to keep your pet safe today, but the reality is that many of you have heard all the tips before. And, if you have any questions, feel free to ask.
Today, I want to take a moment to express my thanks to everyone for all their support in this growing business. I couldn't be more pleased with all we've accomplished in just under two years, and we would not have been able to do this if it weren't for your help. I know Thanksgiving is just one day out of the year, and I'm thankful every day for you, but today just seems like the perfect day to really let you know how appreciative I am.
That said, I'm also thankful for a few other creatures in my life: Cody, Lollie, Mo, and Stolte. My two dogs and two cats do so much to help keep me sane when life seems to be going crazy. Anyway, I thought I'd tell you a little more about them and why I'm so thankful they're around.
-Mo has been mine since he was 4 hours old (you read that right). He was tossed in a Walmart trash bin along with his 3 brothers and sisters and was rescued by a woman who happened to notice something strange about the bag they were in. I was only 16, but I bottle fed them and took charge of the 3am feedings. He's my needy child, but he's also a constant reminder of what can come when people do a little good. If that woman had decided to just keep walking, or if the rescue she took them to had turned them away, or if my mom had simply said we couldn't take them in, then he might not be here today. It took a lot of people doing a lot of good to make up for that one callous and cruel act, but those people exist. I'm thankful for that.
-Stolte was also bottle fed, although her story isn't quiet dramatic. Her mother was accidentally locked away from her (it's a long story), and by the time we found her and reunited mother and kitten, the mom wouldn't take her back. I happened to already know how to bottle feed a kitten (thanks to Mo), so I said I would take her in. It was my senior year of college, and I was freezing in Minnesota. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little depressed. Stolte made me happy. She made each day a little easier. I made friends with new people simply because they wanted to snuggle with a kitten too. She may be a bit undersocialized and my in-laws may call her demon-kitty, but she loves me and Hans, and she's happy when she's with us. I'm thankful for that.
-Cody I consider my first born. I love my cats, but I am admittedly a dog person through and through, and Cody was the first dog who was wholly and truly mine. He's the reason I went into dog training, and he was my motivation behind opening a kennel. If Cody had not come into my life I honestly don't know where I'd be or what I'd be doing. I could write a whole book on all that Cody has given me, but let's just say that I'm grateful for his mere existence.
-Lollie is my court jester. She came into my life through training, and she makes me laugh on a daily basis. She is by far one of the smartest dogs I've known, but I'd be eternally grateful if she'd learn to use her knowledge for good instead of evil as I tire of finding new ways to hide food from her. Whether she's snoring so loud she sounds like a chain saw or whether she's figuring out how to use a Bosu ball as a trampoline so she can grab a pizza box that's resting on a file cabinet that's four and a half feet tall, she is a barrel of laughs. I'm definitely thankful for that.
OK, so here's the question I'm sure you'll hear more than once today: What are you thankful for? I, however, am adding a bit to that question. How does your pet (dog, cat, bird, horse, cow, squirrel, etc) make you even more grateful? It's important to remember how much they've impacted our lives.
Today, I want to take a moment to express my thanks to everyone for all their support in this growing business. I couldn't be more pleased with all we've accomplished in just under two years, and we would not have been able to do this if it weren't for your help. I know Thanksgiving is just one day out of the year, and I'm thankful every day for you, but today just seems like the perfect day to really let you know how appreciative I am.
That said, I'm also thankful for a few other creatures in my life: Cody, Lollie, Mo, and Stolte. My two dogs and two cats do so much to help keep me sane when life seems to be going crazy. Anyway, I thought I'd tell you a little more about them and why I'm so thankful they're around.
-Mo has been mine since he was 4 hours old (you read that right). He was tossed in a Walmart trash bin along with his 3 brothers and sisters and was rescued by a woman who happened to notice something strange about the bag they were in. I was only 16, but I bottle fed them and took charge of the 3am feedings. He's my needy child, but he's also a constant reminder of what can come when people do a little good. If that woman had decided to just keep walking, or if the rescue she took them to had turned them away, or if my mom had simply said we couldn't take them in, then he might not be here today. It took a lot of people doing a lot of good to make up for that one callous and cruel act, but those people exist. I'm thankful for that.
-Stolte was also bottle fed, although her story isn't quiet dramatic. Her mother was accidentally locked away from her (it's a long story), and by the time we found her and reunited mother and kitten, the mom wouldn't take her back. I happened to already know how to bottle feed a kitten (thanks to Mo), so I said I would take her in. It was my senior year of college, and I was freezing in Minnesota. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little depressed. Stolte made me happy. She made each day a little easier. I made friends with new people simply because they wanted to snuggle with a kitten too. She may be a bit undersocialized and my in-laws may call her demon-kitty, but she loves me and Hans, and she's happy when she's with us. I'm thankful for that.
-Cody I consider my first born. I love my cats, but I am admittedly a dog person through and through, and Cody was the first dog who was wholly and truly mine. He's the reason I went into dog training, and he was my motivation behind opening a kennel. If Cody had not come into my life I honestly don't know where I'd be or what I'd be doing. I could write a whole book on all that Cody has given me, but let's just say that I'm grateful for his mere existence.
-Lollie is my court jester. She came into my life through training, and she makes me laugh on a daily basis. She is by far one of the smartest dogs I've known, but I'd be eternally grateful if she'd learn to use her knowledge for good instead of evil as I tire of finding new ways to hide food from her. Whether she's snoring so loud she sounds like a chain saw or whether she's figuring out how to use a Bosu ball as a trampoline so she can grab a pizza box that's resting on a file cabinet that's four and a half feet tall, she is a barrel of laughs. I'm definitely thankful for that.
OK, so here's the question I'm sure you'll hear more than once today: What are you thankful for? I, however, am adding a bit to that question. How does your pet (dog, cat, bird, horse, cow, squirrel, etc) make you even more grateful? It's important to remember how much they've impacted our lives.
HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!!!!!!
Wednesday, November 13, 2013
New Virus
Have y'all heard about this new virus affecting dogs? It's called the circo-virus. In case you don't know what I'm talking about, here's a link:
http://m.nbc12.com/#!/newsDetail/23950879
OK, so that article made you panic a bit. I haven't spent a whole lot of time talking about it, though, because not a lot has been known about it. Plus, here's the thing, telling a dog owner to rush their dog to the vet if they notice lethargy, vomiting, or diarrhea is like telling the mother of a newborn to rush to the doctor if their kid sneezes. Yes, lethargy, vomiting, and diarrhea can be serious symptoms, particularly if they're all combined. However, sometimes a dog is just tired, or sometimes a dog will eat something that does not agree with it. Plus, generally lethargy accompanies vomiting and diarrhea (I know I don't tend to have a lot of energy when my stomach is upset).
For a less panicky description, follow the link below:
https://www.avma.org/kb/resources/pages/circovirus-in-dogs-frequently-asked-questions.aspx
A few things to note in this article:
1) The deaths in Ohio and Michigan have not been definitively linked to circo-virus. It's not completely ruled out, but I don't like to jump to conclusions.
2) Plenty of dogs have had traces of circovirus in their stool, but have never displayed symptoms.
3) General hygiene and care is the best preventative (until they eventually come out with a vaccine)
Otherwise, while it is good to keep a close eye out, it won't help you to panic. My best advice? Talk to your vet. Really find out about it. The media is good at spreading hype and panic, so just following news stories is not a good idea. Do your research, and keep an eye on your dog.
http://m.nbc12.com/#!/newsDetail/23950879
OK, so that article made you panic a bit. I haven't spent a whole lot of time talking about it, though, because not a lot has been known about it. Plus, here's the thing, telling a dog owner to rush their dog to the vet if they notice lethargy, vomiting, or diarrhea is like telling the mother of a newborn to rush to the doctor if their kid sneezes. Yes, lethargy, vomiting, and diarrhea can be serious symptoms, particularly if they're all combined. However, sometimes a dog is just tired, or sometimes a dog will eat something that does not agree with it. Plus, generally lethargy accompanies vomiting and diarrhea (I know I don't tend to have a lot of energy when my stomach is upset).
For a less panicky description, follow the link below:
https://www.avma.org/kb/resources/pages/circovirus-in-dogs-frequently-asked-questions.aspx
A few things to note in this article:
1) The deaths in Ohio and Michigan have not been definitively linked to circo-virus. It's not completely ruled out, but I don't like to jump to conclusions.
2) Plenty of dogs have had traces of circovirus in their stool, but have never displayed symptoms.
3) General hygiene and care is the best preventative (until they eventually come out with a vaccine)
Otherwise, while it is good to keep a close eye out, it won't help you to panic. My best advice? Talk to your vet. Really find out about it. The media is good at spreading hype and panic, so just following news stories is not a good idea. Do your research, and keep an eye on your dog.
Tuesday, November 5, 2013
The Crate of Doom
48563
3
3333333333333333333333333333333333333333
333333333333
Sorry! Apparently Lollie wanted to say, "Hi!" while I was away from my desk.
Anyway, we have another question today. Today's question is about a dog who is scared of his new, wire crate.
When we first got Ruger we "crate trained" him. I use "" because I know we could have done a much better job of it but he was happy to go in his crate (that we kept getting larger as he got larger) but about 4 months ago he outgrew the largest airport/carrier crate they made so we had to go to a larger metal collapsible crate. He is TERRIFIED of it, we put him in with treats, we've tried putting his food in there but he won't eat it (days on end), we've tried covering it more like a "den" but he brings the blanket in between the slats and starts chewing on it, we've never put him in there as a punishment (same as his old crates) and whenever we had put him in any of his crates we always put a bone for him to chew on as well as a treat. It's reached the point we are having to full on carry him in the larger metal crate (and at 100lbs it's not easy). What else can we do?
This is a surprisingly easy fix, but it does require a little bit of time and effort.
Step 1: Teach him to simply go in the crate.
The key here is not to force him to stay in it, but to teach him that going in it is fun. Really, you can do this a number of ways. You can have him follow a trail of high-value treats into the crate, you can try to get him to take a running start and lead him into the crate, or you can throw his favorite toy into the crate (I would try to avoid simply forcing and shoving him in). Once he goes in (and this may take some time) give him a huge reward. I prefer to use a handful of hot dogs or cheese, something my dog really like. I'll make a big deal of how good he was for going in, give him the treats, and let him out. Repeat this for a while until Ruger is happily entering the crate. Remember, he doesn't have to stay in there for any length of time. He just has to go in.
Step 2: Lengthen his stay.
Once he's happily entering his crate, encourage him to stay in the crate longer by giving him more treats. I'll generally use an initial command like "go to bed" to get him to enter, and then I lengthen by treating and saying, "Good, good bed." Of course, you would not go from 0-5 minutes right away. You may start by having him remain in the crate for just a few seconds, and gradually lengthen his time in there to a minute or two.
Step 3: Shut the door.
Once his time in the crate has lengthened to a minute or so, take it back a step. Have him go in the crate, treat him a few times for staying in there, then shut the door. Leave the door shut just long enough to give him a treat through the wires, then open the door. Once he seems OK with this, return to lengthening his time in the crate, this time with the door shut.
Step 4: Put it all together.
Now is the moment of truth. See if he will enter the crate, stay in there, and allow you to shut the door all without panicking. Instead of simply feeding him treats at this point, I would give him something to occupy his time (a Kong or some other puzzle toy is helpful). He shouldn't stay in there long, maybe just long enough to finish his toy, but by this point he should be able to stay without panicking and without you right next to him.
After following all these steps, Ruger should be able to enter his crate with ease, and you should quickly be able to leave him in the crate while you leave for bouts of time. I will say, though, if Ruger has issues with even going near his crate, you may need to start with one step earlier. If he won't even go near the crate, teach him to walk in a heel next to the crate and around the crate until it is no longer scary. You can also have him down-stay next to the crate and reward him for that.
For most dogs, this a fairly short process and may only take a few days to a week to really get down (depending on how much you work with him). I have full faith that Ruger will get the hang of things quickly and life will return to somewhat normal soon.
Good luck!
3
3333333333333333333333333333333333333333
333333333333
Sorry! Apparently Lollie wanted to say, "Hi!" while I was away from my desk.
Anyway, we have another question today. Today's question is about a dog who is scared of his new, wire crate.
When we first got Ruger we "crate trained" him. I use "" because I know we could have done a much better job of it but he was happy to go in his crate (that we kept getting larger as he got larger) but about 4 months ago he outgrew the largest airport/carrier crate they made so we had to go to a larger metal collapsible crate. He is TERRIFIED of it, we put him in with treats, we've tried putting his food in there but he won't eat it (days on end), we've tried covering it more like a "den" but he brings the blanket in between the slats and starts chewing on it, we've never put him in there as a punishment (same as his old crates) and whenever we had put him in any of his crates we always put a bone for him to chew on as well as a treat. It's reached the point we are having to full on carry him in the larger metal crate (and at 100lbs it's not easy). What else can we do?
This is a surprisingly easy fix, but it does require a little bit of time and effort.
Step 1: Teach him to simply go in the crate.
The key here is not to force him to stay in it, but to teach him that going in it is fun. Really, you can do this a number of ways. You can have him follow a trail of high-value treats into the crate, you can try to get him to take a running start and lead him into the crate, or you can throw his favorite toy into the crate (I would try to avoid simply forcing and shoving him in). Once he goes in (and this may take some time) give him a huge reward. I prefer to use a handful of hot dogs or cheese, something my dog really like. I'll make a big deal of how good he was for going in, give him the treats, and let him out. Repeat this for a while until Ruger is happily entering the crate. Remember, he doesn't have to stay in there for any length of time. He just has to go in.
Step 2: Lengthen his stay.
Once he's happily entering his crate, encourage him to stay in the crate longer by giving him more treats. I'll generally use an initial command like "go to bed" to get him to enter, and then I lengthen by treating and saying, "Good, good bed." Of course, you would not go from 0-5 minutes right away. You may start by having him remain in the crate for just a few seconds, and gradually lengthen his time in there to a minute or two.
Step 3: Shut the door.
Once his time in the crate has lengthened to a minute or so, take it back a step. Have him go in the crate, treat him a few times for staying in there, then shut the door. Leave the door shut just long enough to give him a treat through the wires, then open the door. Once he seems OK with this, return to lengthening his time in the crate, this time with the door shut.
Step 4: Put it all together.
Now is the moment of truth. See if he will enter the crate, stay in there, and allow you to shut the door all without panicking. Instead of simply feeding him treats at this point, I would give him something to occupy his time (a Kong or some other puzzle toy is helpful). He shouldn't stay in there long, maybe just long enough to finish his toy, but by this point he should be able to stay without panicking and without you right next to him.
After following all these steps, Ruger should be able to enter his crate with ease, and you should quickly be able to leave him in the crate while you leave for bouts of time. I will say, though, if Ruger has issues with even going near his crate, you may need to start with one step earlier. If he won't even go near the crate, teach him to walk in a heel next to the crate and around the crate until it is no longer scary. You can also have him down-stay next to the crate and reward him for that.
For most dogs, this a fairly short process and may only take a few days to a week to really get down (depending on how much you work with him). I have full faith that Ruger will get the hang of things quickly and life will return to somewhat normal soon.
Good luck!
Wednesday, October 30, 2013
Traveling With Pup
Hi there! I have to apologize for my absence. You see, Hans, Cody, Lollie, and I have all been out of town. We took a nice trip to Minnesota to visit family, and that got me thinking. How many people really know how to travel with their dogs? Traveling with dogs is a lot like traveling with kids...it's not always easy. It requires a lot of planning, a lot of preparation, and a lot of attention. So, here I'm going to give you some simple steps to follow when it comes to traveling with your dog.
Part 1: Preparation
Step 1: Exercise. Exercise is probably the number one most important thing you can give your dog before you travel, particularly if you have a long car ride. Your dog is going to be cooped up for quite some time, and expecting a hyper / energetic dog to this peacefully just isn't fair. So, take your dog to take care, go for long walks / runs, or go to the dog park. Just make sure your dog is truly tired.
Step 2: Check the vet. Make sure your dog is completely up to date on vaccinations. Also, check out the area you're headed. If you live in colder temperatures, your vet may not often recommend vaccines for tick-born illnesses, but if you're traveling farther south, you may want to consider those vaccines. Take a moment to talk with your vet over what may be best.
Part 2: Packing
For a longer trip, you should bring along the following items:
-Enough food for the entire trip
-Food bowls
-A bed or blanket
-One good chew toy
-One good play toy
-Shot records
-Poop bags
-At least one bottle of water
-Medications
-First Aid Kit (optional)
-Collars (with tags)
-Leashes
-Crate (optional depending on your dog and your destination)
Never assume that you'll be able to buy extra anything on your trip. You might not be able to find your EXACT type of food or toys. On one trip, I was quite surprised at the difficult I had in finding a quality leash. I ended up buying a horse lead!
Also, keep in mind that you want to be a good steward wherever you go, so be prepared for the worst while hoping for the best.
Oh, and that water bottle? That's so you can easily water them in the car. You can always refill it at rest stops, but I found it was helpful to have for in between rest stops.
Part 3: The Trip
First, be prepared to stop more. If you can usually drive 4+ hours without a stop, please don't ask your dog to do that. I recommend stopping every 2-3 hours at least (Note: This is also recommended for people). At each stop, make sure your dog has a chance to stretch his legs, use the bathroom, and drink a little water.
Next, make sure your dog has plenty of space in your car to stretch out. Your dog should have enough room to sit, lie down, and stand up comfortable. It's the same rules that apply when purchasing a crate.
Remember what I said earlier about being a good steward? That really applies here. Pick up poop! That was one of my biggest peeves on this last trip. So often, I'd take my dogs to the designated pet area only to be met with a land mine of dog piles. You can bet I didn't want my dogs in that area either! Also make sure your dogs are polite towards other dogs and people. If other dogs and people stress your dog out, take him to quieter areas.
Part 4: The Destination
The biggest thing here is to actually make your dog a part of your trip. Don't expect your dog to sit in a crate all day while you go off on adventures. Find things your dog can do with you. Go on a hike in a new locale, find a restaurant where you can eat with your pet, or simply go out to new parks and play with a toy. Remember this is a vacation for your dog too, not just for you.
Lastly, I'm going to reiterate the whole good-steward thing. If you're in a hotel, don't allow your dog to bark ad nauseum. If you're staying with friends, clean up after your dog (vacuum up hair, respect rules regarding furniture, etc). You're in charge of your dog, and it's your responsibility to take care of him/her. Don't expect others to clean up your mess.
Traveling with your pet can be a truly rewarding experience. You have a companion and a bit of protection in unfamiliar territory. How much you get out of it, though, will really depend on how much you put into it. Have fun with your best friend on your trip!
*One last note: I did not mention seat belting or crating your dog. Seat belts for dogs have become extremely popular, but recent studies have started questioning their effectiveness. The safest way to travel with your pet is to put your pet in a crate and secure the crate in the car. Some states have laws regarding the safety of traveling with your pet, but if you're not traveling to one of those states, how you secure your dog is up to you.
Part 1: Preparation
Step 1: Exercise. Exercise is probably the number one most important thing you can give your dog before you travel, particularly if you have a long car ride. Your dog is going to be cooped up for quite some time, and expecting a hyper / energetic dog to this peacefully just isn't fair. So, take your dog to take care, go for long walks / runs, or go to the dog park. Just make sure your dog is truly tired.
Step 2: Check the vet. Make sure your dog is completely up to date on vaccinations. Also, check out the area you're headed. If you live in colder temperatures, your vet may not often recommend vaccines for tick-born illnesses, but if you're traveling farther south, you may want to consider those vaccines. Take a moment to talk with your vet over what may be best.
Part 2: Packing
For a longer trip, you should bring along the following items:
-Enough food for the entire trip
-Food bowls
-A bed or blanket
-One good chew toy
-One good play toy
-Shot records
-Poop bags
-At least one bottle of water
-Medications
-First Aid Kit (optional)
-Collars (with tags)
-Leashes
-Crate (optional depending on your dog and your destination)
Never assume that you'll be able to buy extra anything on your trip. You might not be able to find your EXACT type of food or toys. On one trip, I was quite surprised at the difficult I had in finding a quality leash. I ended up buying a horse lead!
Also, keep in mind that you want to be a good steward wherever you go, so be prepared for the worst while hoping for the best.
Oh, and that water bottle? That's so you can easily water them in the car. You can always refill it at rest stops, but I found it was helpful to have for in between rest stops.
Part 3: The Trip
First, be prepared to stop more. If you can usually drive 4+ hours without a stop, please don't ask your dog to do that. I recommend stopping every 2-3 hours at least (Note: This is also recommended for people). At each stop, make sure your dog has a chance to stretch his legs, use the bathroom, and drink a little water.
Next, make sure your dog has plenty of space in your car to stretch out. Your dog should have enough room to sit, lie down, and stand up comfortable. It's the same rules that apply when purchasing a crate.
Remember what I said earlier about being a good steward? That really applies here. Pick up poop! That was one of my biggest peeves on this last trip. So often, I'd take my dogs to the designated pet area only to be met with a land mine of dog piles. You can bet I didn't want my dogs in that area either! Also make sure your dogs are polite towards other dogs and people. If other dogs and people stress your dog out, take him to quieter areas.
Part 4: The Destination
The biggest thing here is to actually make your dog a part of your trip. Don't expect your dog to sit in a crate all day while you go off on adventures. Find things your dog can do with you. Go on a hike in a new locale, find a restaurant where you can eat with your pet, or simply go out to new parks and play with a toy. Remember this is a vacation for your dog too, not just for you.
Lastly, I'm going to reiterate the whole good-steward thing. If you're in a hotel, don't allow your dog to bark ad nauseum. If you're staying with friends, clean up after your dog (vacuum up hair, respect rules regarding furniture, etc). You're in charge of your dog, and it's your responsibility to take care of him/her. Don't expect others to clean up your mess.
Traveling with your pet can be a truly rewarding experience. You have a companion and a bit of protection in unfamiliar territory. How much you get out of it, though, will really depend on how much you put into it. Have fun with your best friend on your trip!
*One last note: I did not mention seat belting or crating your dog. Seat belts for dogs have become extremely popular, but recent studies have started questioning their effectiveness. The safest way to travel with your pet is to put your pet in a crate and secure the crate in the car. Some states have laws regarding the safety of traveling with your pet, but if you're not traveling to one of those states, how you secure your dog is up to you.
Tuesday, October 8, 2013
Terror Terrier Tallly
I have a question about my Terror Terrier Tally.
Tally loves to go everywhere with me, but she gets terribly annoying. On walks she barks at other dogs, but I just make her sit calmly next to me till the dog passes and then she's all good so that's not a issue, but at the park if she sees another dog having off-leash fun she goes berserk, she wants to go join them in their game of fetch or whatever they're doing. I try distracting her with training and hikes in the trees but she always tries to escape and chase that dog just cause she isn't allowed to join their play. Whenever she plays with a dog they have fun and stuff unless the dog is better than her at something. How can I get her too play nicely and not be such a sore loser? I hate her being on leash while everyone's dogs are playing and chasing each other.
So, here's my first question: Does she ever become aggressive during these barking episodes? Has she ever tried to bite you or another dog over a toy? If the answer is no, then take a deep breath. She just needs a little guidance.
It sounds like Tally is a typical Terrier. She has tons of energy, lots of mental stamina, and she has no idea what to do with herself. So, let's first look at training.
She may know the meaning of the word heel (or whatever command you use), or sit, or down, but just because she understands what you're saying doesn't mean she understands she's supposed to listen all the time. That means it's time to up her training. Start to SLOWLY desensitize her to distractions. If she can be around a calm dog, reward her for being good, then go a baby step up. Work with her with a slightly less calm dog. Note that I did not say a hyper dog. I just meant one who wags its tail a little more. From there, try to work with an even less calm dog (and so forth and so forth) until you work your way up to a dog who's actually hyper. Then, start to change the scenery.
When you change the scenery, you may need to go back a step with your distraction. That's OK. It's perfectly normal. Just take your time and keep working.
In addition to all that, you can also look at some options for corrections. Corrections vary from dog to dog. For some, it may just be a firm, "Ah ah!" while for others you may need something a little stronger (look for a post on corrections coming soon).
Lastly, as always, exercise, exercise, exercise. Walks, runs, bike rides, hikes, games of fetch, swims. Tally will need all that and more to unwind a little. If you think she's getting enough exercise, up it anyway. I can almost guarantee you she still has plenty of energy left.
If you really take the time to work on all that, you'll find that Tally will no longer be a Terror. She'll just be a simple Terrier.
Oh, and one last note. A lot of people stress out over their dog barking in the dog park. I wouldn't. Sometimes dogs just need that opportunity to be a dog. The real problem with dog parks is that they're generally full of a bunch of overly-wound-up dogs, and that can cause some problems. If you're worried about her barking within the dog park, you may not want to take her until you can easily redirect her.
Tally loves to go everywhere with me, but she gets terribly annoying. On walks she barks at other dogs, but I just make her sit calmly next to me till the dog passes and then she's all good so that's not a issue, but at the park if she sees another dog having off-leash fun she goes berserk, she wants to go join them in their game of fetch or whatever they're doing. I try distracting her with training and hikes in the trees but she always tries to escape and chase that dog just cause she isn't allowed to join their play. Whenever she plays with a dog they have fun and stuff unless the dog is better than her at something. How can I get her too play nicely and not be such a sore loser? I hate her being on leash while everyone's dogs are playing and chasing each other.
So, here's my first question: Does she ever become aggressive during these barking episodes? Has she ever tried to bite you or another dog over a toy? If the answer is no, then take a deep breath. She just needs a little guidance.
It sounds like Tally is a typical Terrier. She has tons of energy, lots of mental stamina, and she has no idea what to do with herself. So, let's first look at training.
She may know the meaning of the word heel (or whatever command you use), or sit, or down, but just because she understands what you're saying doesn't mean she understands she's supposed to listen all the time. That means it's time to up her training. Start to SLOWLY desensitize her to distractions. If she can be around a calm dog, reward her for being good, then go a baby step up. Work with her with a slightly less calm dog. Note that I did not say a hyper dog. I just meant one who wags its tail a little more. From there, try to work with an even less calm dog (and so forth and so forth) until you work your way up to a dog who's actually hyper. Then, start to change the scenery.
When you change the scenery, you may need to go back a step with your distraction. That's OK. It's perfectly normal. Just take your time and keep working.
In addition to all that, you can also look at some options for corrections. Corrections vary from dog to dog. For some, it may just be a firm, "Ah ah!" while for others you may need something a little stronger (look for a post on corrections coming soon).
Lastly, as always, exercise, exercise, exercise. Walks, runs, bike rides, hikes, games of fetch, swims. Tally will need all that and more to unwind a little. If you think she's getting enough exercise, up it anyway. I can almost guarantee you she still has plenty of energy left.
If you really take the time to work on all that, you'll find that Tally will no longer be a Terror. She'll just be a simple Terrier.
Oh, and one last note. A lot of people stress out over their dog barking in the dog park. I wouldn't. Sometimes dogs just need that opportunity to be a dog. The real problem with dog parks is that they're generally full of a bunch of overly-wound-up dogs, and that can cause some problems. If you're worried about her barking within the dog park, you may not want to take her until you can easily redirect her.
Tuesday, October 1, 2013
The Midnight Eliminator
Oh I have a question! I have a 2 year old cairn terrier, Flapjack.
She's the very best animal in all possible ways, except for one thing -
midnight pees. When I permit her to sleep in bed with me she doesn't
have to go out until morning, but when she sleeps in another part of the
house she never asks to go out and pees on the floor. She knows she's
made a mistake and acts bashful. What to do?
This problem sounds like a two-fold issue.
First, it sounds like Flapjack may not have been fully house trained. What is she lacking? A way to let you know she needs to go out! How does she signal she needs to go out during the day? If your answer is that she circles at the door, walks to you, or you just take her out on a schedule, that's fine, but it's not going to be great a night when you're sleeping. Try teaching her to ring a bell on the door, something you can hear. The hope would then be that it's easier for her to let you know she needs to go out, and you'll be better able to get up and help her.
Second, it sounds like she simply sleeps better when she's with you. This may be because she feels safer with you or she's warmer with you, or just that you have a more comfortable bed, but whatever the reason, she sleeps better when she's with you. Have you ever had a slightly fitful night's rest? Have you noticed that generally on those nights you need to use the bathroom at some point? The same is probably happening for Flapjack. So, we need to help her rest better. Try giving her a little more exercise closer to bed time, and make sure she feels safe and secure (and comfortable) in her bed. A crate may be a good option as well, as it tends to help with the security aspect, and it keeps her from wandering off and peeing somewhere.
While working on those two things may solve the issue, I'd like to mention one other thing. Pay attention to how much water she's drinking and limit her water at night. You may want to try pulling water up an hour or so before bed time, or just put ice in a bowl so she can't guzzle the water all at once. Just keep in mind that what goes in must come out, and if she's drinking a lot of water then she's also going to have to pee.
One last, final, important note. When you wake up and find a puddle of pee on your floor, it's important to not punish Flapjack. If you don't catch her in the act of peeing, then you've lost your opportunity. Anything after that is just punishment for punishment's sake, and that's not fair to her.
Good luck with Flapjack, and please keep me posted!
This problem sounds like a two-fold issue.
First, it sounds like Flapjack may not have been fully house trained. What is she lacking? A way to let you know she needs to go out! How does she signal she needs to go out during the day? If your answer is that she circles at the door, walks to you, or you just take her out on a schedule, that's fine, but it's not going to be great a night when you're sleeping. Try teaching her to ring a bell on the door, something you can hear. The hope would then be that it's easier for her to let you know she needs to go out, and you'll be better able to get up and help her.
Second, it sounds like she simply sleeps better when she's with you. This may be because she feels safer with you or she's warmer with you, or just that you have a more comfortable bed, but whatever the reason, she sleeps better when she's with you. Have you ever had a slightly fitful night's rest? Have you noticed that generally on those nights you need to use the bathroom at some point? The same is probably happening for Flapjack. So, we need to help her rest better. Try giving her a little more exercise closer to bed time, and make sure she feels safe and secure (and comfortable) in her bed. A crate may be a good option as well, as it tends to help with the security aspect, and it keeps her from wandering off and peeing somewhere.
While working on those two things may solve the issue, I'd like to mention one other thing. Pay attention to how much water she's drinking and limit her water at night. You may want to try pulling water up an hour or so before bed time, or just put ice in a bowl so she can't guzzle the water all at once. Just keep in mind that what goes in must come out, and if she's drinking a lot of water then she's also going to have to pee.
One last, final, important note. When you wake up and find a puddle of pee on your floor, it's important to not punish Flapjack. If you don't catch her in the act of peeing, then you've lost your opportunity. Anything after that is just punishment for punishment's sake, and that's not fair to her.
Good luck with Flapjack, and please keep me posted!
Tuesday, September 24, 2013
Thursday, September 12, 2013
The Charging Jack-Chi
We have another question to answer! The set up for the question is a bit lengthy, but I'm sharing it all with you so you have all the information I have.
I've been having issues with my dog when we go on walks for a long time now and I'm hoping to get some advice. She's a 7 year old chihuahua/jack?/mystery dog mix. She's spayed, and weighs 11 pounds. At home she's always been sweet, she's good for the vet, does well with familiar dogs, and will eagerly make friends with new dogs as long as they come over to our place first. When she was a puppy she was terrified to go on walks, she'd freeze and I'd have to coax her along. She'd always shake and want me to carry her when we'd go to the dog park. Right around when she hit a year she started going berserk whenever she'd see a strange dog during our walks. When my husband takes her, or she's with one of my friends when we're out of town she does better...but with me she goes crazy.
Unfortunately we live in a busy part of a city that has a high population of dog owners, which has turned into her getting pad trained and not walked as often as she should. Recently one of my friends that lives in the same building has been taking her out. For awhile it sounded like she was doing OK, but it turns out she was flipping out on other dogs with her too, and getting picked up. Now she tries to get my friend to pick her up about half of the time when she sees another dog, and if I'm there...she'll stay in full on attack mode until the other dog is out of sight. The last three times my friend took her out, from what I was told, she's started jumping up at strangers and play nipping at their clothes. She's really bouncy, and when we play she'll jump and play nip. But, I'm worried that something might happen so shes no longer going with the friend. I suspect that the issue is her being protective of me (and now my friend), and not getting enough exercise because of the aggressive behavior. What should I do?
This is a great question, and it's a common problem, particularly with small dogs, as they tend to show a bit of a Napoleon complex. In addition, it seems like she may show signs of under-socialization. So, what are some things you can do?
1) Stop picking her up.
It's very common for the owner of a small dog to try to calm their dog by picking her up and soothing her. The problem is, this doesn't actually calm the dog. Rather it teaches her that acting in such a manner will get her hugs and snuggles (praise, if you will). It will actually amp up her behavior as she searches for more ways to get your attention.
2) Teach her a command.
I'd start with teaching her a good heel command. Really, any command could work, but the heel command is probably your best bet.
3) Tell her what you want her to do, NOT what you don't want her to do.
Most people make the mistake of yelling at or trying to shush their dogs when they start barking. The problem with this is that 1) your dog has no idea what you're telling her to do, and 2) even if she does understand "no" she won't understand why. So, it's better to teach your dog a command (like the heel mentioned above) and then use that command when approaching stressful situations. By rewarding your dog when she does the command you've taught her your teaching her that following you will earn her good things.
4) Slowly introduce her to other dogs / distractions.
Don't just throw her into a long walk with huge distractions, and don't expect her to be perfect right off the bat with another wild and crazy dog. Introduce, under control, to a calm, obedient dog. Practice that a few times, then step up to a slightly less-trained dog. Next, have an untrained, calm dog. Keep stepping it up until you reach that crazy, hyper dog test. Through each step, expect her to follow the command(s) you've taught her and reward her for doing so.
5) Consult a Trainer
Whether it seems like it a lot, the steps I just set forth can be quite overwhelming. You may find yourself asking things like, "Am I doing this right?" "Is this command good enough?" "Are we introducing her to the right kinds of dogs?" If in doubt, set up a meeting with a local trainer. Many offer free consultations or at least cheap consultations. A great many also offer walking sessions where you can learn to walk with other dogs (a great source for when you are well into step 4). Don't be afraid to seek the advice of a professional. That's what we're here for!
I hope this helps to answer your question. I do have one last tip, though. Don't concern yourself over what others are thinking. The number one worry I see in people who have barking / aggressive / excited dogs is what others must think of them. The only thing you should be worried about is your dog. By worrying about anything else you are doing your dog and yourself a HUGE disservice. Good luck!
I've been having issues with my dog when we go on walks for a long time now and I'm hoping to get some advice. She's a 7 year old chihuahua/jack?/mystery dog mix. She's spayed, and weighs 11 pounds. At home she's always been sweet, she's good for the vet, does well with familiar dogs, and will eagerly make friends with new dogs as long as they come over to our place first. When she was a puppy she was terrified to go on walks, she'd freeze and I'd have to coax her along. She'd always shake and want me to carry her when we'd go to the dog park. Right around when she hit a year she started going berserk whenever she'd see a strange dog during our walks. When my husband takes her, or she's with one of my friends when we're out of town she does better...but with me she goes crazy.
Unfortunately we live in a busy part of a city that has a high population of dog owners, which has turned into her getting pad trained and not walked as often as she should. Recently one of my friends that lives in the same building has been taking her out. For awhile it sounded like she was doing OK, but it turns out she was flipping out on other dogs with her too, and getting picked up. Now she tries to get my friend to pick her up about half of the time when she sees another dog, and if I'm there...she'll stay in full on attack mode until the other dog is out of sight. The last three times my friend took her out, from what I was told, she's started jumping up at strangers and play nipping at their clothes. She's really bouncy, and when we play she'll jump and play nip. But, I'm worried that something might happen so shes no longer going with the friend. I suspect that the issue is her being protective of me (and now my friend), and not getting enough exercise because of the aggressive behavior. What should I do?
This is a great question, and it's a common problem, particularly with small dogs, as they tend to show a bit of a Napoleon complex. In addition, it seems like she may show signs of under-socialization. So, what are some things you can do?
1) Stop picking her up.
It's very common for the owner of a small dog to try to calm their dog by picking her up and soothing her. The problem is, this doesn't actually calm the dog. Rather it teaches her that acting in such a manner will get her hugs and snuggles (praise, if you will). It will actually amp up her behavior as she searches for more ways to get your attention.
2) Teach her a command.
I'd start with teaching her a good heel command. Really, any command could work, but the heel command is probably your best bet.
3) Tell her what you want her to do, NOT what you don't want her to do.
Most people make the mistake of yelling at or trying to shush their dogs when they start barking. The problem with this is that 1) your dog has no idea what you're telling her to do, and 2) even if she does understand "no" she won't understand why. So, it's better to teach your dog a command (like the heel mentioned above) and then use that command when approaching stressful situations. By rewarding your dog when she does the command you've taught her your teaching her that following you will earn her good things.
4) Slowly introduce her to other dogs / distractions.
Don't just throw her into a long walk with huge distractions, and don't expect her to be perfect right off the bat with another wild and crazy dog. Introduce, under control, to a calm, obedient dog. Practice that a few times, then step up to a slightly less-trained dog. Next, have an untrained, calm dog. Keep stepping it up until you reach that crazy, hyper dog test. Through each step, expect her to follow the command(s) you've taught her and reward her for doing so.
5) Consult a Trainer
Whether it seems like it a lot, the steps I just set forth can be quite overwhelming. You may find yourself asking things like, "Am I doing this right?" "Is this command good enough?" "Are we introducing her to the right kinds of dogs?" If in doubt, set up a meeting with a local trainer. Many offer free consultations or at least cheap consultations. A great many also offer walking sessions where you can learn to walk with other dogs (a great source for when you are well into step 4). Don't be afraid to seek the advice of a professional. That's what we're here for!
I hope this helps to answer your question. I do have one last tip, though. Don't concern yourself over what others are thinking. The number one worry I see in people who have barking / aggressive / excited dogs is what others must think of them. The only thing you should be worried about is your dog. By worrying about anything else you are doing your dog and yourself a HUGE disservice. Good luck!
Friday, September 6, 2013
Dogs In Need
For those of you who don't know, I do a lot of work with area rescue groups. Mainly, I often offer my kennel as a halfway house for dogs who don't yet have a foster or a forever home. Occasionally this also involves training them or grooming them. In addition to that, I serve as an adoption screener, meaning I screen applicants who are interested in a dog to see if that dog is a good fit for them. This means I have a lot of interaction with people involved with a rescue. Some of them are looking for a new dog, some of them are surrendering their current dog. Some of them are tearful because they want to be able to keep the dog but just can't, some of them are matter of fact that the dog isn't a good fit, and some are finding a home for a dog because the dog's owner is too sick to care for the dog himself/herself. Today was the first time, though, that I became physically ill when I saw the state of the dog.
An owner came in today to surrender her dog. She said it was a poodle mix, and that her employment situation just didn't allow her to care for her dog the way she'd like (something I'd heard many times before). She said he hadn't been groomed for a while, and he had a few bad matts (again nothing new). This is what she brought in:
The matt on his back alone weighed about a half pound. His legs were so matted that he couldn't walk. He had a matt that connected from the bottom of his neck to the back of his front leg, so even standing was painful. During the grooming process, there were a few times he yelped in pain because simply trying to stretch out his leg hurt him. Even through all that, though, he was friendly. He didn't try to bite.
An owner came in today to surrender her dog. She said it was a poodle mix, and that her employment situation just didn't allow her to care for her dog the way she'd like (something I'd heard many times before). She said he hadn't been groomed for a while, and he had a few bad matts (again nothing new). This is what she brought in:
When we were done with the shave down were were left with what you see above. Each black speck is a tick. His paws were worse, and he had many ticks between each toe. As we were shaving, at one point we shaved a huge matt of his ear. It wasn't just a matt, though. It was, in fact, a tick nest. Hundreds of baby ticks had hatched on him and were making their home.
This sweet boy has been living outside for at least a year (probably more). This sweet boy did nothing to deserve this treatment. He was friendly and sweet. He was a little nervous, but he was patient with us. At this point, we're only partially done with his intake care. The next step is to let the tick medicine do its trick and to finish grooming him. We also need to administer vaccines to him since the only one he's had in the past 5 years is Rabies. Chances are he has a tick-born illness which will require some fairly costly meds, and I can only hope that he doesn't have heart worms.
In the few years I've worked with rescues, I've seen some pretty desperate situations. This week alone I saw two dogs, emaciated, whose owner had run out of dog food and had essentially quit feeding them; I saw a dog who had heartworms, lyme disease, and ehrlichia all because the owner hadn't given it preventative meds; and I saw a dog, terrified of everything, either because it had been beaten or because the owner just hadn't taken the time to socialize it. Still, none of that compares to this. This is more than just neglect. This is more than just an oversight. This is flat-out abuse. This dog was in so much pain he could not walk...all because someone had refused to take a brush or a pair of scissors to him.
The problem is, there are so many dogs like him. There are so many in shelters and in bad homes. They need help. They need someone to care for them, to love them, to play with them. Rescues need fosters and donations. If you're looking for a way to help, contact your local rescue, or contact me. There's no reason for dogs like this little guy to stay in this situation. We can help them. You can help them.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)