About 5 months ago, my family adopted a 1 ½ year old neutered jack
Russell/poodle mix (we think!) named Jack from the SPCA. He has proven
to be a challenge, but until recently we have not had any issues that
aren’t fixable through simple training. On Thanksgiving day, Jack
somehow got a hold of a cotton swab and took it into his crate with him.
I idiotically reached in to get it from him, and he left some nasty
bite wounds on my hand. Yesterday, my dad had the leftover turkey on the
kitchen counter, and when he left the room for a minute, Jack managed
to grab a turkey leg and bring it into his crate. My dad had to use a
garden rake to retrieve it, which Jack proceeded to bite and attack the
rake throughout the process. Today, my mom had the turkey out on the
counter, and when I stepped in front of Jack in attempt to get him away
from the turkey, he immediately went into attack mode; if I had not been
wearing plush slippers, there’s a good chance I’d be in the emergency
room right now. Other than this newfound aggression over turkey, Jack is
a sweet, affectionate and playful dog. It would be my worst nightmare
to have him put down over this. I understand that there are no quick
fixes to such severe behavioral issues, but my family and I obviously
cannot go on living in fear of Jack attacking every time we eat. PLEASE
HELP!
Let me start by saying that this is a VERY serious issue. Biting of any kind is concerning, but the fact that he's biting to the point of breaking skin and possibly needing stitches is worrisome. So, what should you do?
The first thing I would do would be to take away any possibility of him getting anything he shouldn't have. How do you do this you ask. Well, you have to make sure you can monitor him at all times. The best way to do this is to utilize two different tools: The leash and the crate. When he's with the family have him on leash, attached to someone who can keep a good hold of him. When no one can watch him, put him in a crate.
Next comes training. He needs to learn how to listen to you. Even just one command will go a long way. For this instance, I would teach him a solid recall (come) or a sit. That way, if he does happen to get a hold of something he shouldn't have, you can give him a command to call him away from it. Ideally, though, you would put him through a good, solid training program. I like to make dogs work for all the things they really want in life (to go outside, to eat, to play, etc). Essentially, he'll learn that everything good comes from you and he has to work for it.
After that, we need to work on desensitization. I'd start when he's eating his food. Start by giving him his regular food, and every few seconds drop a high-value treat in his bowl (hot dog, cheese, etc). Don't move around him or pet him. Just drop the treat in his bowl. After a while he'll start to recognize that your approach of his food is a good thing. He may start to wait for you to give him the treat, or he may just start wagging his tail when you approach him. At that point, you can try moving away from him and returning to him before dropping the treat. When you get tail wags for that, try taking things up another notch. Try approaching from different directions, then try touching him, all while giving him treats. This will help him learn that your approach does not necessarily mean he's going to lose something good. Rather, he may gain something better.
Lastly, if he does happen to get something he shouldn't, don't just try to take it away. Try to trade it for something better. Offer him a toy or a better treat. See if there's something special enough for him to give up. That way, it's no longer a fight over who gets the treat, but rather an opportunity for him to have something better (in his eyes anyway).
I will recommend that you consult a professional trainer as well (more than just on this blog). It's hard to diagnose and treat an issue without meeting the dog or knowing the family dynamic, so it's best if someone is able to meet with you.
Good luck with Jack. I know it's a lot of hard work, but having someone who is willing to work with him is extremely important for Jack right now. Many rescues won't spend much time with a dog who shows severe aggression, and even if they do work with him, it becomes difficult to transfer his good behavior into a new home with new rules. I wish you the best!
Tuesday, December 3, 2013
Thursday, November 28, 2013
Thankful
Usually this blog is a source of information for many. I'll answer questions or post interesting tidbits (well, interesting to me any way). But, today is Thanksgiving, so I'm taking a little break from that. I could post information on how to keep your pet safe today, but the reality is that many of you have heard all the tips before. And, if you have any questions, feel free to ask.
Today, I want to take a moment to express my thanks to everyone for all their support in this growing business. I couldn't be more pleased with all we've accomplished in just under two years, and we would not have been able to do this if it weren't for your help. I know Thanksgiving is just one day out of the year, and I'm thankful every day for you, but today just seems like the perfect day to really let you know how appreciative I am.
That said, I'm also thankful for a few other creatures in my life: Cody, Lollie, Mo, and Stolte. My two dogs and two cats do so much to help keep me sane when life seems to be going crazy. Anyway, I thought I'd tell you a little more about them and why I'm so thankful they're around.
-Mo has been mine since he was 4 hours old (you read that right). He was tossed in a Walmart trash bin along with his 3 brothers and sisters and was rescued by a woman who happened to notice something strange about the bag they were in. I was only 16, but I bottle fed them and took charge of the 3am feedings. He's my needy child, but he's also a constant reminder of what can come when people do a little good. If that woman had decided to just keep walking, or if the rescue she took them to had turned them away, or if my mom had simply said we couldn't take them in, then he might not be here today. It took a lot of people doing a lot of good to make up for that one callous and cruel act, but those people exist. I'm thankful for that.
-Stolte was also bottle fed, although her story isn't quiet dramatic. Her mother was accidentally locked away from her (it's a long story), and by the time we found her and reunited mother and kitten, the mom wouldn't take her back. I happened to already know how to bottle feed a kitten (thanks to Mo), so I said I would take her in. It was my senior year of college, and I was freezing in Minnesota. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little depressed. Stolte made me happy. She made each day a little easier. I made friends with new people simply because they wanted to snuggle with a kitten too. She may be a bit undersocialized and my in-laws may call her demon-kitty, but she loves me and Hans, and she's happy when she's with us. I'm thankful for that.
-Cody I consider my first born. I love my cats, but I am admittedly a dog person through and through, and Cody was the first dog who was wholly and truly mine. He's the reason I went into dog training, and he was my motivation behind opening a kennel. If Cody had not come into my life I honestly don't know where I'd be or what I'd be doing. I could write a whole book on all that Cody has given me, but let's just say that I'm grateful for his mere existence.
-Lollie is my court jester. She came into my life through training, and she makes me laugh on a daily basis. She is by far one of the smartest dogs I've known, but I'd be eternally grateful if she'd learn to use her knowledge for good instead of evil as I tire of finding new ways to hide food from her. Whether she's snoring so loud she sounds like a chain saw or whether she's figuring out how to use a Bosu ball as a trampoline so she can grab a pizza box that's resting on a file cabinet that's four and a half feet tall, she is a barrel of laughs. I'm definitely thankful for that.
OK, so here's the question I'm sure you'll hear more than once today: What are you thankful for? I, however, am adding a bit to that question. How does your pet (dog, cat, bird, horse, cow, squirrel, etc) make you even more grateful? It's important to remember how much they've impacted our lives.
Today, I want to take a moment to express my thanks to everyone for all their support in this growing business. I couldn't be more pleased with all we've accomplished in just under two years, and we would not have been able to do this if it weren't for your help. I know Thanksgiving is just one day out of the year, and I'm thankful every day for you, but today just seems like the perfect day to really let you know how appreciative I am.
That said, I'm also thankful for a few other creatures in my life: Cody, Lollie, Mo, and Stolte. My two dogs and two cats do so much to help keep me sane when life seems to be going crazy. Anyway, I thought I'd tell you a little more about them and why I'm so thankful they're around.
-Mo has been mine since he was 4 hours old (you read that right). He was tossed in a Walmart trash bin along with his 3 brothers and sisters and was rescued by a woman who happened to notice something strange about the bag they were in. I was only 16, but I bottle fed them and took charge of the 3am feedings. He's my needy child, but he's also a constant reminder of what can come when people do a little good. If that woman had decided to just keep walking, or if the rescue she took them to had turned them away, or if my mom had simply said we couldn't take them in, then he might not be here today. It took a lot of people doing a lot of good to make up for that one callous and cruel act, but those people exist. I'm thankful for that.
-Stolte was also bottle fed, although her story isn't quiet dramatic. Her mother was accidentally locked away from her (it's a long story), and by the time we found her and reunited mother and kitten, the mom wouldn't take her back. I happened to already know how to bottle feed a kitten (thanks to Mo), so I said I would take her in. It was my senior year of college, and I was freezing in Minnesota. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little depressed. Stolte made me happy. She made each day a little easier. I made friends with new people simply because they wanted to snuggle with a kitten too. She may be a bit undersocialized and my in-laws may call her demon-kitty, but she loves me and Hans, and she's happy when she's with us. I'm thankful for that.
-Cody I consider my first born. I love my cats, but I am admittedly a dog person through and through, and Cody was the first dog who was wholly and truly mine. He's the reason I went into dog training, and he was my motivation behind opening a kennel. If Cody had not come into my life I honestly don't know where I'd be or what I'd be doing. I could write a whole book on all that Cody has given me, but let's just say that I'm grateful for his mere existence.
-Lollie is my court jester. She came into my life through training, and she makes me laugh on a daily basis. She is by far one of the smartest dogs I've known, but I'd be eternally grateful if she'd learn to use her knowledge for good instead of evil as I tire of finding new ways to hide food from her. Whether she's snoring so loud she sounds like a chain saw or whether she's figuring out how to use a Bosu ball as a trampoline so she can grab a pizza box that's resting on a file cabinet that's four and a half feet tall, she is a barrel of laughs. I'm definitely thankful for that.
OK, so here's the question I'm sure you'll hear more than once today: What are you thankful for? I, however, am adding a bit to that question. How does your pet (dog, cat, bird, horse, cow, squirrel, etc) make you even more grateful? It's important to remember how much they've impacted our lives.
HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!!!!!!
Wednesday, November 13, 2013
New Virus
Have y'all heard about this new virus affecting dogs? It's called the circo-virus. In case you don't know what I'm talking about, here's a link:
http://m.nbc12.com/#!/newsDetail/23950879
OK, so that article made you panic a bit. I haven't spent a whole lot of time talking about it, though, because not a lot has been known about it. Plus, here's the thing, telling a dog owner to rush their dog to the vet if they notice lethargy, vomiting, or diarrhea is like telling the mother of a newborn to rush to the doctor if their kid sneezes. Yes, lethargy, vomiting, and diarrhea can be serious symptoms, particularly if they're all combined. However, sometimes a dog is just tired, or sometimes a dog will eat something that does not agree with it. Plus, generally lethargy accompanies vomiting and diarrhea (I know I don't tend to have a lot of energy when my stomach is upset).
For a less panicky description, follow the link below:
https://www.avma.org/kb/resources/pages/circovirus-in-dogs-frequently-asked-questions.aspx
A few things to note in this article:
1) The deaths in Ohio and Michigan have not been definitively linked to circo-virus. It's not completely ruled out, but I don't like to jump to conclusions.
2) Plenty of dogs have had traces of circovirus in their stool, but have never displayed symptoms.
3) General hygiene and care is the best preventative (until they eventually come out with a vaccine)
Otherwise, while it is good to keep a close eye out, it won't help you to panic. My best advice? Talk to your vet. Really find out about it. The media is good at spreading hype and panic, so just following news stories is not a good idea. Do your research, and keep an eye on your dog.
http://m.nbc12.com/#!/newsDetail/23950879
OK, so that article made you panic a bit. I haven't spent a whole lot of time talking about it, though, because not a lot has been known about it. Plus, here's the thing, telling a dog owner to rush their dog to the vet if they notice lethargy, vomiting, or diarrhea is like telling the mother of a newborn to rush to the doctor if their kid sneezes. Yes, lethargy, vomiting, and diarrhea can be serious symptoms, particularly if they're all combined. However, sometimes a dog is just tired, or sometimes a dog will eat something that does not agree with it. Plus, generally lethargy accompanies vomiting and diarrhea (I know I don't tend to have a lot of energy when my stomach is upset).
For a less panicky description, follow the link below:
https://www.avma.org/kb/resources/pages/circovirus-in-dogs-frequently-asked-questions.aspx
A few things to note in this article:
1) The deaths in Ohio and Michigan have not been definitively linked to circo-virus. It's not completely ruled out, but I don't like to jump to conclusions.
2) Plenty of dogs have had traces of circovirus in their stool, but have never displayed symptoms.
3) General hygiene and care is the best preventative (until they eventually come out with a vaccine)
Otherwise, while it is good to keep a close eye out, it won't help you to panic. My best advice? Talk to your vet. Really find out about it. The media is good at spreading hype and panic, so just following news stories is not a good idea. Do your research, and keep an eye on your dog.
Tuesday, November 5, 2013
The Crate of Doom
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Sorry! Apparently Lollie wanted to say, "Hi!" while I was away from my desk.
Anyway, we have another question today. Today's question is about a dog who is scared of his new, wire crate.
When we first got Ruger we "crate trained" him. I use "" because I know we could have done a much better job of it but he was happy to go in his crate (that we kept getting larger as he got larger) but about 4 months ago he outgrew the largest airport/carrier crate they made so we had to go to a larger metal collapsible crate. He is TERRIFIED of it, we put him in with treats, we've tried putting his food in there but he won't eat it (days on end), we've tried covering it more like a "den" but he brings the blanket in between the slats and starts chewing on it, we've never put him in there as a punishment (same as his old crates) and whenever we had put him in any of his crates we always put a bone for him to chew on as well as a treat. It's reached the point we are having to full on carry him in the larger metal crate (and at 100lbs it's not easy). What else can we do?
This is a surprisingly easy fix, but it does require a little bit of time and effort.
Step 1: Teach him to simply go in the crate.
The key here is not to force him to stay in it, but to teach him that going in it is fun. Really, you can do this a number of ways. You can have him follow a trail of high-value treats into the crate, you can try to get him to take a running start and lead him into the crate, or you can throw his favorite toy into the crate (I would try to avoid simply forcing and shoving him in). Once he goes in (and this may take some time) give him a huge reward. I prefer to use a handful of hot dogs or cheese, something my dog really like. I'll make a big deal of how good he was for going in, give him the treats, and let him out. Repeat this for a while until Ruger is happily entering the crate. Remember, he doesn't have to stay in there for any length of time. He just has to go in.
Step 2: Lengthen his stay.
Once he's happily entering his crate, encourage him to stay in the crate longer by giving him more treats. I'll generally use an initial command like "go to bed" to get him to enter, and then I lengthen by treating and saying, "Good, good bed." Of course, you would not go from 0-5 minutes right away. You may start by having him remain in the crate for just a few seconds, and gradually lengthen his time in there to a minute or two.
Step 3: Shut the door.
Once his time in the crate has lengthened to a minute or so, take it back a step. Have him go in the crate, treat him a few times for staying in there, then shut the door. Leave the door shut just long enough to give him a treat through the wires, then open the door. Once he seems OK with this, return to lengthening his time in the crate, this time with the door shut.
Step 4: Put it all together.
Now is the moment of truth. See if he will enter the crate, stay in there, and allow you to shut the door all without panicking. Instead of simply feeding him treats at this point, I would give him something to occupy his time (a Kong or some other puzzle toy is helpful). He shouldn't stay in there long, maybe just long enough to finish his toy, but by this point he should be able to stay without panicking and without you right next to him.
After following all these steps, Ruger should be able to enter his crate with ease, and you should quickly be able to leave him in the crate while you leave for bouts of time. I will say, though, if Ruger has issues with even going near his crate, you may need to start with one step earlier. If he won't even go near the crate, teach him to walk in a heel next to the crate and around the crate until it is no longer scary. You can also have him down-stay next to the crate and reward him for that.
For most dogs, this a fairly short process and may only take a few days to a week to really get down (depending on how much you work with him). I have full faith that Ruger will get the hang of things quickly and life will return to somewhat normal soon.
Good luck!
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Sorry! Apparently Lollie wanted to say, "Hi!" while I was away from my desk.
Anyway, we have another question today. Today's question is about a dog who is scared of his new, wire crate.
When we first got Ruger we "crate trained" him. I use "" because I know we could have done a much better job of it but he was happy to go in his crate (that we kept getting larger as he got larger) but about 4 months ago he outgrew the largest airport/carrier crate they made so we had to go to a larger metal collapsible crate. He is TERRIFIED of it, we put him in with treats, we've tried putting his food in there but he won't eat it (days on end), we've tried covering it more like a "den" but he brings the blanket in between the slats and starts chewing on it, we've never put him in there as a punishment (same as his old crates) and whenever we had put him in any of his crates we always put a bone for him to chew on as well as a treat. It's reached the point we are having to full on carry him in the larger metal crate (and at 100lbs it's not easy). What else can we do?
This is a surprisingly easy fix, but it does require a little bit of time and effort.
Step 1: Teach him to simply go in the crate.
The key here is not to force him to stay in it, but to teach him that going in it is fun. Really, you can do this a number of ways. You can have him follow a trail of high-value treats into the crate, you can try to get him to take a running start and lead him into the crate, or you can throw his favorite toy into the crate (I would try to avoid simply forcing and shoving him in). Once he goes in (and this may take some time) give him a huge reward. I prefer to use a handful of hot dogs or cheese, something my dog really like. I'll make a big deal of how good he was for going in, give him the treats, and let him out. Repeat this for a while until Ruger is happily entering the crate. Remember, he doesn't have to stay in there for any length of time. He just has to go in.
Step 2: Lengthen his stay.
Once he's happily entering his crate, encourage him to stay in the crate longer by giving him more treats. I'll generally use an initial command like "go to bed" to get him to enter, and then I lengthen by treating and saying, "Good, good bed." Of course, you would not go from 0-5 minutes right away. You may start by having him remain in the crate for just a few seconds, and gradually lengthen his time in there to a minute or two.
Step 3: Shut the door.
Once his time in the crate has lengthened to a minute or so, take it back a step. Have him go in the crate, treat him a few times for staying in there, then shut the door. Leave the door shut just long enough to give him a treat through the wires, then open the door. Once he seems OK with this, return to lengthening his time in the crate, this time with the door shut.
Step 4: Put it all together.
Now is the moment of truth. See if he will enter the crate, stay in there, and allow you to shut the door all without panicking. Instead of simply feeding him treats at this point, I would give him something to occupy his time (a Kong or some other puzzle toy is helpful). He shouldn't stay in there long, maybe just long enough to finish his toy, but by this point he should be able to stay without panicking and without you right next to him.
After following all these steps, Ruger should be able to enter his crate with ease, and you should quickly be able to leave him in the crate while you leave for bouts of time. I will say, though, if Ruger has issues with even going near his crate, you may need to start with one step earlier. If he won't even go near the crate, teach him to walk in a heel next to the crate and around the crate until it is no longer scary. You can also have him down-stay next to the crate and reward him for that.
For most dogs, this a fairly short process and may only take a few days to a week to really get down (depending on how much you work with him). I have full faith that Ruger will get the hang of things quickly and life will return to somewhat normal soon.
Good luck!
Wednesday, October 30, 2013
Traveling With Pup
Hi there! I have to apologize for my absence. You see, Hans, Cody, Lollie, and I have all been out of town. We took a nice trip to Minnesota to visit family, and that got me thinking. How many people really know how to travel with their dogs? Traveling with dogs is a lot like traveling with kids...it's not always easy. It requires a lot of planning, a lot of preparation, and a lot of attention. So, here I'm going to give you some simple steps to follow when it comes to traveling with your dog.
Part 1: Preparation
Step 1: Exercise. Exercise is probably the number one most important thing you can give your dog before you travel, particularly if you have a long car ride. Your dog is going to be cooped up for quite some time, and expecting a hyper / energetic dog to this peacefully just isn't fair. So, take your dog to take care, go for long walks / runs, or go to the dog park. Just make sure your dog is truly tired.
Step 2: Check the vet. Make sure your dog is completely up to date on vaccinations. Also, check out the area you're headed. If you live in colder temperatures, your vet may not often recommend vaccines for tick-born illnesses, but if you're traveling farther south, you may want to consider those vaccines. Take a moment to talk with your vet over what may be best.
Part 2: Packing
For a longer trip, you should bring along the following items:
-Enough food for the entire trip
-Food bowls
-A bed or blanket
-One good chew toy
-One good play toy
-Shot records
-Poop bags
-At least one bottle of water
-Medications
-First Aid Kit (optional)
-Collars (with tags)
-Leashes
-Crate (optional depending on your dog and your destination)
Never assume that you'll be able to buy extra anything on your trip. You might not be able to find your EXACT type of food or toys. On one trip, I was quite surprised at the difficult I had in finding a quality leash. I ended up buying a horse lead!
Also, keep in mind that you want to be a good steward wherever you go, so be prepared for the worst while hoping for the best.
Oh, and that water bottle? That's so you can easily water them in the car. You can always refill it at rest stops, but I found it was helpful to have for in between rest stops.
Part 3: The Trip
First, be prepared to stop more. If you can usually drive 4+ hours without a stop, please don't ask your dog to do that. I recommend stopping every 2-3 hours at least (Note: This is also recommended for people). At each stop, make sure your dog has a chance to stretch his legs, use the bathroom, and drink a little water.
Next, make sure your dog has plenty of space in your car to stretch out. Your dog should have enough room to sit, lie down, and stand up comfortable. It's the same rules that apply when purchasing a crate.
Remember what I said earlier about being a good steward? That really applies here. Pick up poop! That was one of my biggest peeves on this last trip. So often, I'd take my dogs to the designated pet area only to be met with a land mine of dog piles. You can bet I didn't want my dogs in that area either! Also make sure your dogs are polite towards other dogs and people. If other dogs and people stress your dog out, take him to quieter areas.
Part 4: The Destination
The biggest thing here is to actually make your dog a part of your trip. Don't expect your dog to sit in a crate all day while you go off on adventures. Find things your dog can do with you. Go on a hike in a new locale, find a restaurant where you can eat with your pet, or simply go out to new parks and play with a toy. Remember this is a vacation for your dog too, not just for you.
Lastly, I'm going to reiterate the whole good-steward thing. If you're in a hotel, don't allow your dog to bark ad nauseum. If you're staying with friends, clean up after your dog (vacuum up hair, respect rules regarding furniture, etc). You're in charge of your dog, and it's your responsibility to take care of him/her. Don't expect others to clean up your mess.
Traveling with your pet can be a truly rewarding experience. You have a companion and a bit of protection in unfamiliar territory. How much you get out of it, though, will really depend on how much you put into it. Have fun with your best friend on your trip!
*One last note: I did not mention seat belting or crating your dog. Seat belts for dogs have become extremely popular, but recent studies have started questioning their effectiveness. The safest way to travel with your pet is to put your pet in a crate and secure the crate in the car. Some states have laws regarding the safety of traveling with your pet, but if you're not traveling to one of those states, how you secure your dog is up to you.
Part 1: Preparation
Step 1: Exercise. Exercise is probably the number one most important thing you can give your dog before you travel, particularly if you have a long car ride. Your dog is going to be cooped up for quite some time, and expecting a hyper / energetic dog to this peacefully just isn't fair. So, take your dog to take care, go for long walks / runs, or go to the dog park. Just make sure your dog is truly tired.
Step 2: Check the vet. Make sure your dog is completely up to date on vaccinations. Also, check out the area you're headed. If you live in colder temperatures, your vet may not often recommend vaccines for tick-born illnesses, but if you're traveling farther south, you may want to consider those vaccines. Take a moment to talk with your vet over what may be best.
Part 2: Packing
For a longer trip, you should bring along the following items:
-Enough food for the entire trip
-Food bowls
-A bed or blanket
-One good chew toy
-One good play toy
-Shot records
-Poop bags
-At least one bottle of water
-Medications
-First Aid Kit (optional)
-Collars (with tags)
-Leashes
-Crate (optional depending on your dog and your destination)
Never assume that you'll be able to buy extra anything on your trip. You might not be able to find your EXACT type of food or toys. On one trip, I was quite surprised at the difficult I had in finding a quality leash. I ended up buying a horse lead!
Also, keep in mind that you want to be a good steward wherever you go, so be prepared for the worst while hoping for the best.
Oh, and that water bottle? That's so you can easily water them in the car. You can always refill it at rest stops, but I found it was helpful to have for in between rest stops.
Part 3: The Trip
First, be prepared to stop more. If you can usually drive 4+ hours without a stop, please don't ask your dog to do that. I recommend stopping every 2-3 hours at least (Note: This is also recommended for people). At each stop, make sure your dog has a chance to stretch his legs, use the bathroom, and drink a little water.
Next, make sure your dog has plenty of space in your car to stretch out. Your dog should have enough room to sit, lie down, and stand up comfortable. It's the same rules that apply when purchasing a crate.
Remember what I said earlier about being a good steward? That really applies here. Pick up poop! That was one of my biggest peeves on this last trip. So often, I'd take my dogs to the designated pet area only to be met with a land mine of dog piles. You can bet I didn't want my dogs in that area either! Also make sure your dogs are polite towards other dogs and people. If other dogs and people stress your dog out, take him to quieter areas.
Part 4: The Destination
The biggest thing here is to actually make your dog a part of your trip. Don't expect your dog to sit in a crate all day while you go off on adventures. Find things your dog can do with you. Go on a hike in a new locale, find a restaurant where you can eat with your pet, or simply go out to new parks and play with a toy. Remember this is a vacation for your dog too, not just for you.
Lastly, I'm going to reiterate the whole good-steward thing. If you're in a hotel, don't allow your dog to bark ad nauseum. If you're staying with friends, clean up after your dog (vacuum up hair, respect rules regarding furniture, etc). You're in charge of your dog, and it's your responsibility to take care of him/her. Don't expect others to clean up your mess.
Traveling with your pet can be a truly rewarding experience. You have a companion and a bit of protection in unfamiliar territory. How much you get out of it, though, will really depend on how much you put into it. Have fun with your best friend on your trip!
*One last note: I did not mention seat belting or crating your dog. Seat belts for dogs have become extremely popular, but recent studies have started questioning their effectiveness. The safest way to travel with your pet is to put your pet in a crate and secure the crate in the car. Some states have laws regarding the safety of traveling with your pet, but if you're not traveling to one of those states, how you secure your dog is up to you.
Tuesday, October 8, 2013
Terror Terrier Tallly
I have a question about my Terror Terrier Tally.
Tally loves to go everywhere with me, but she gets terribly annoying. On walks she barks at other dogs, but I just make her sit calmly next to me till the dog passes and then she's all good so that's not a issue, but at the park if she sees another dog having off-leash fun she goes berserk, she wants to go join them in their game of fetch or whatever they're doing. I try distracting her with training and hikes in the trees but she always tries to escape and chase that dog just cause she isn't allowed to join their play. Whenever she plays with a dog they have fun and stuff unless the dog is better than her at something. How can I get her too play nicely and not be such a sore loser? I hate her being on leash while everyone's dogs are playing and chasing each other.
So, here's my first question: Does she ever become aggressive during these barking episodes? Has she ever tried to bite you or another dog over a toy? If the answer is no, then take a deep breath. She just needs a little guidance.
It sounds like Tally is a typical Terrier. She has tons of energy, lots of mental stamina, and she has no idea what to do with herself. So, let's first look at training.
She may know the meaning of the word heel (or whatever command you use), or sit, or down, but just because she understands what you're saying doesn't mean she understands she's supposed to listen all the time. That means it's time to up her training. Start to SLOWLY desensitize her to distractions. If she can be around a calm dog, reward her for being good, then go a baby step up. Work with her with a slightly less calm dog. Note that I did not say a hyper dog. I just meant one who wags its tail a little more. From there, try to work with an even less calm dog (and so forth and so forth) until you work your way up to a dog who's actually hyper. Then, start to change the scenery.
When you change the scenery, you may need to go back a step with your distraction. That's OK. It's perfectly normal. Just take your time and keep working.
In addition to all that, you can also look at some options for corrections. Corrections vary from dog to dog. For some, it may just be a firm, "Ah ah!" while for others you may need something a little stronger (look for a post on corrections coming soon).
Lastly, as always, exercise, exercise, exercise. Walks, runs, bike rides, hikes, games of fetch, swims. Tally will need all that and more to unwind a little. If you think she's getting enough exercise, up it anyway. I can almost guarantee you she still has plenty of energy left.
If you really take the time to work on all that, you'll find that Tally will no longer be a Terror. She'll just be a simple Terrier.
Oh, and one last note. A lot of people stress out over their dog barking in the dog park. I wouldn't. Sometimes dogs just need that opportunity to be a dog. The real problem with dog parks is that they're generally full of a bunch of overly-wound-up dogs, and that can cause some problems. If you're worried about her barking within the dog park, you may not want to take her until you can easily redirect her.
Tally loves to go everywhere with me, but she gets terribly annoying. On walks she barks at other dogs, but I just make her sit calmly next to me till the dog passes and then she's all good so that's not a issue, but at the park if she sees another dog having off-leash fun she goes berserk, she wants to go join them in their game of fetch or whatever they're doing. I try distracting her with training and hikes in the trees but she always tries to escape and chase that dog just cause she isn't allowed to join their play. Whenever she plays with a dog they have fun and stuff unless the dog is better than her at something. How can I get her too play nicely and not be such a sore loser? I hate her being on leash while everyone's dogs are playing and chasing each other.
So, here's my first question: Does she ever become aggressive during these barking episodes? Has she ever tried to bite you or another dog over a toy? If the answer is no, then take a deep breath. She just needs a little guidance.
It sounds like Tally is a typical Terrier. She has tons of energy, lots of mental stamina, and she has no idea what to do with herself. So, let's first look at training.
She may know the meaning of the word heel (or whatever command you use), or sit, or down, but just because she understands what you're saying doesn't mean she understands she's supposed to listen all the time. That means it's time to up her training. Start to SLOWLY desensitize her to distractions. If she can be around a calm dog, reward her for being good, then go a baby step up. Work with her with a slightly less calm dog. Note that I did not say a hyper dog. I just meant one who wags its tail a little more. From there, try to work with an even less calm dog (and so forth and so forth) until you work your way up to a dog who's actually hyper. Then, start to change the scenery.
When you change the scenery, you may need to go back a step with your distraction. That's OK. It's perfectly normal. Just take your time and keep working.
In addition to all that, you can also look at some options for corrections. Corrections vary from dog to dog. For some, it may just be a firm, "Ah ah!" while for others you may need something a little stronger (look for a post on corrections coming soon).
Lastly, as always, exercise, exercise, exercise. Walks, runs, bike rides, hikes, games of fetch, swims. Tally will need all that and more to unwind a little. If you think she's getting enough exercise, up it anyway. I can almost guarantee you she still has plenty of energy left.
If you really take the time to work on all that, you'll find that Tally will no longer be a Terror. She'll just be a simple Terrier.
Oh, and one last note. A lot of people stress out over their dog barking in the dog park. I wouldn't. Sometimes dogs just need that opportunity to be a dog. The real problem with dog parks is that they're generally full of a bunch of overly-wound-up dogs, and that can cause some problems. If you're worried about her barking within the dog park, you may not want to take her until you can easily redirect her.
Tuesday, October 1, 2013
The Midnight Eliminator
Oh I have a question! I have a 2 year old cairn terrier, Flapjack.
She's the very best animal in all possible ways, except for one thing -
midnight pees. When I permit her to sleep in bed with me she doesn't
have to go out until morning, but when she sleeps in another part of the
house she never asks to go out and pees on the floor. She knows she's
made a mistake and acts bashful. What to do?
This problem sounds like a two-fold issue.
First, it sounds like Flapjack may not have been fully house trained. What is she lacking? A way to let you know she needs to go out! How does she signal she needs to go out during the day? If your answer is that she circles at the door, walks to you, or you just take her out on a schedule, that's fine, but it's not going to be great a night when you're sleeping. Try teaching her to ring a bell on the door, something you can hear. The hope would then be that it's easier for her to let you know she needs to go out, and you'll be better able to get up and help her.
Second, it sounds like she simply sleeps better when she's with you. This may be because she feels safer with you or she's warmer with you, or just that you have a more comfortable bed, but whatever the reason, she sleeps better when she's with you. Have you ever had a slightly fitful night's rest? Have you noticed that generally on those nights you need to use the bathroom at some point? The same is probably happening for Flapjack. So, we need to help her rest better. Try giving her a little more exercise closer to bed time, and make sure she feels safe and secure (and comfortable) in her bed. A crate may be a good option as well, as it tends to help with the security aspect, and it keeps her from wandering off and peeing somewhere.
While working on those two things may solve the issue, I'd like to mention one other thing. Pay attention to how much water she's drinking and limit her water at night. You may want to try pulling water up an hour or so before bed time, or just put ice in a bowl so she can't guzzle the water all at once. Just keep in mind that what goes in must come out, and if she's drinking a lot of water then she's also going to have to pee.
One last, final, important note. When you wake up and find a puddle of pee on your floor, it's important to not punish Flapjack. If you don't catch her in the act of peeing, then you've lost your opportunity. Anything after that is just punishment for punishment's sake, and that's not fair to her.
Good luck with Flapjack, and please keep me posted!
This problem sounds like a two-fold issue.
First, it sounds like Flapjack may not have been fully house trained. What is she lacking? A way to let you know she needs to go out! How does she signal she needs to go out during the day? If your answer is that she circles at the door, walks to you, or you just take her out on a schedule, that's fine, but it's not going to be great a night when you're sleeping. Try teaching her to ring a bell on the door, something you can hear. The hope would then be that it's easier for her to let you know she needs to go out, and you'll be better able to get up and help her.
Second, it sounds like she simply sleeps better when she's with you. This may be because she feels safer with you or she's warmer with you, or just that you have a more comfortable bed, but whatever the reason, she sleeps better when she's with you. Have you ever had a slightly fitful night's rest? Have you noticed that generally on those nights you need to use the bathroom at some point? The same is probably happening for Flapjack. So, we need to help her rest better. Try giving her a little more exercise closer to bed time, and make sure she feels safe and secure (and comfortable) in her bed. A crate may be a good option as well, as it tends to help with the security aspect, and it keeps her from wandering off and peeing somewhere.
While working on those two things may solve the issue, I'd like to mention one other thing. Pay attention to how much water she's drinking and limit her water at night. You may want to try pulling water up an hour or so before bed time, or just put ice in a bowl so she can't guzzle the water all at once. Just keep in mind that what goes in must come out, and if she's drinking a lot of water then she's also going to have to pee.
One last, final, important note. When you wake up and find a puddle of pee on your floor, it's important to not punish Flapjack. If you don't catch her in the act of peeing, then you've lost your opportunity. Anything after that is just punishment for punishment's sake, and that's not fair to her.
Good luck with Flapjack, and please keep me posted!
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